Kobalt router

There are at least a couple of options.

  1. Do the “two wrench approach” for bit changes, by use of a thin 12 mm wrench, like this one, in conjunction with the stock 17 mm wrench provided by Kobalt with the router. I made my own 12mm wrench using my plasma cutter, and some 3mm cold rolled steel, but afterward I googled and the one I linked to above is just 3.6 mm thick, and would hopefully work. This all but eliminates the need to use the button.

  2. I just remixed the main mount to have a rounded notch in it, for exposing the button more. The fixed base that attaches to it would still be there, but the area closest to the button would be more open. It might help if option #1 is not used. This new part is now included in the Printables listing. See Cura screen shots below showing how I used support blockers to confine supports to only the newly added notch.

I can only say… that I had a tough time getting the new Kobalt router pushed down into my mounts, which are based on Ryan’s. I did get it done though.

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Ideally you use to wrenches to get it tight anyway. I’d only ever use the button for lightly fixing it. :slightly_smiling_face:

Why?

The button (on the Makita) provides a positive lock. It was designed to hold the shaft without slip.

Hmm, fear of breaking something. Maybe unfounded. :sweat_smile:

Pansy

I’ll get one of these ordered as I like the two wrench approach. It will definitely have to be thin as there isn’t much space between the collet nut and the bottom of the dust collector mount.

Thank you for the remix. Printing asap I’ll post it mounted here when I get the chance.

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Buy a regular wrench and take a grinder to it to make it skinny. I’ve done this a few times for other use cases.

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Yes, I was thinking just this exact thing earlier today. And since we know 3mm works, and the “thin” wrench I linked to on Amazon is only 3.6mm, worst case scenario, you’d only have to grind off about 0.6mm’s worth.

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Belt sander would make fast work. Especially with low grit… am curious if any of the furniture special wrenches I have are 12mm…. I really should have labeled them a while ago…

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It’s alive! Thanks @DougJoseph for the remix, definitely gave me a little more room.

Also unforeseen issue with PETG, it isn’t as flexible so when mounting a tight fitting router it’s easy to brake those CAM adjusters…. Good thing I had backup mounts

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And we just replaced our 1st Makita that spun a bearing with a new one from the local Lowe’s. Makita’s warranty “service” made repair less than financially viable, because shipping isn’t covered. A new one cost less than shipping the failed one to/from the warranty repair center, and we needed to get back online quickly. Replacement bearing set only about $25 though. Good to know this one can fit in our 65mm mount.

Yay! This is something I was wondering about.

Did this get reworked? It looks like it is 8mm longer and not the same shape. The Makita is on the right and the Kobalt is on the left, both from Printables. Was there an interference?
image

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The electronics of the kobalt are a bit larger so without that step away from the core, the Kobalt will hit the bearing on the core when it plunges.

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A lot of info on Cobalt router except holder diameter - I assume it is 65mm. Please advise, I have to get a replacement router for my BoXYZ. Can your controller board be used to upgrade their long obsolete controller? Thanks - Bob Schoemer

65.75mm

I am not sure. Probably though. What sort of specs is it currently using? Stepper size, current needs, number of steppers?

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Cheers for the info, will not add 2nd hole then. Instead, to help airflow will seal up the existing LED hole and remove the funnel…

Will print Vac top part using transparent pla/petg, or at least print the bottom 1.5mm layers transparent…

Considered mod and milling acrylic/poly part, but trying transparent pla/petg seems easier, and might be good enough…

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Oh…dang, that is a good one. Why didn’t I think of that. So simple!

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I had seriously thought of doing a mod’d version of that “shield / guard” part on my floating Z dust shoe, that has a clear acrylic bottom inserted to let the LED light shine through. I honestly don’t know how long it would stay clear and see-through, before getting scratched up and hazy. Perhaps worth a try.

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