Sure…
I parameterized the model… The text is rounded to 2 decimal places, but the math is calculated for 5mm. I didn’t feel like modifying the Text template, so you get it in inches 
8to1ScarfJig5mm.zip (56.1 KB)
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Latest video
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Thank you. Could you explain the 8:1 ratio?
Also, how do I place the scarfing jig in my slicer?
The jig may not be creating the correct ratio. I need to take another look at that.
But the idea is that the scarf joint is 8 times longer than the width of the material. So for a 1/4" material, the joint would be 2" long.
Taking another look at what this is producing, it looks to be more 4:1.
As far as printing the jig, I printed it flat and used supports for the bottom. I had a hard time figuring out how to design it to print without supports.
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Actually. I take that back… I did design it correctly 
Looking at the CAD, the gap on the side on the left is the correct width.
As you push the wood into the slot towards the sanding disk, it gets sanded away until the face is parallel to the sanding disk and fills in the gap on the left side. (roughly) . The final gap may be just a tad larger than 8:1, but we’re talking <1mm (50.8 calculated vs 81.195 actual)
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Made a bit of a mistake on the kayak that will take a bit of work to correct.
Shot some video for an update discussing it.
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Follow up video on the mistake…
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Pretty brutal mistake. But that just adds to the fun.
Yeah. It sucked pretty bad when I saw it.
Started trimming the waterline tonight so I can add a trim piece.
The left side before cutting the waterline.
The right side after cutting the waterline.
Action shot because my wife is out of town and texted asking what me and the kids were doing.
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You call the clamps “the kids”?
No. The clamps are my ‘underlings’… They’re WAY more productive than my kids are…
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I have no idea how this works, glad to be following along.
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Ugh… Had to order more clamps… Again…
Mahogany doesn’t bend as easily as cedar. The accent strips on the waterline will take more persuasion to keep in place while the glue dries.
“There, that should be enough clamps” - Every woodworker, ever, every project, after buying more clamps.
Boat building will test your clamping prowise more than any other woodworking project.
I’ve always known I’d need more bar clamps.
Well, yeah. Any time you work with bent wood, you’re going to need 4 more clamps than you have. Of course, your next project will be display shelving, and you’ll need some right-angle clamps. Then comes the octagonal planters and matching patio table, and you’re a couple of band clamps short for those…
I started with the shelving and display cases. Plenty of band clamps and angle clamps.
I also went down the table and cutting board path, so I have quite a few pipe clamps and larger bar clamps. Oddly enough, it’s the cheaper 6 and 12 inch clamps I needed more of.
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For many years I always had a boat in the build. A mate and I used to pool our clamps, it’s surprising how often you need more than 100 3" G/C Clamps.
Because everyone who builds a boat likes clamps, here’s exactly half of mine - not counting the six and eight footers or what’s left of the spring clamps. And yes, I wish I had more of the Bessey K bodies, despite what people think I don’t have anywhere near enough.
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I have 4 bessey K-body clamps that are big enough to clamp a single cabinet carcass together. They are awesome but heavy.
I also followed Paul Seller’s advice for making the HF bar clamps i to something usable with some extra pine reinforcement:
Those ended up great and very lightweight.
I really like the irwin quick grip clamps I try to always have one nearby because they are one handed.
But the bulk of the clamps I have are HF F clamps. I have removed the rivet on the end of several so I can clamp through a smaller hole: https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/clamps-vises/6-inch-bar-clamp-96210.html
I really don’t like using C clamps (but I have a bunch I’ve inherited) or spring clamps (but if they work, they are by far the cheapest).
I haven’t built any boats though.
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