It might not be obvious which direction will produce less resistance to the left or right contact, and for the Z axis it’s even less clear if clockwise means signal (black) moves toward red voltage or toward white voltage.
It’s possible to test each one individually and wire accordingly so higher voltage corresponds to movement in the positive direction. It’s definitely doable but it’s easy to get backwards.
The firmware has an option to reverse the polarity so you can test it and reverse polarity if necessary. It’s an extra step but if you soldered one or more axes backwards, it’s a lot easier to reverse the polarity and recompile, rather than rewire.
Just looking at the possibility of adding this to my SKR Pro V1.2 board when I get my MPCNC finished.
On checking schematics to find some spare pins Extension 1 would seem to have everything needed. It exposes 5V and GND as well as PF 8, 9 10 which connect to ADC3_IN6, 7, 8 if I am reading the schematic right.
Would anybody be able to confirm this? Or if you have already fit a joystick to the SKR PRO could you say what pins you used?
HERES THE TRICK: You must use 3.3v output on the board near the endstop switches rather than using the 5v as much of this post describes.
configuration_adv.h:
#define JOYSTICK #if ENABLED(JOYSTICK) #define JOY_X_PIN PF8 // RAMPS: Suggested pin A5 on AUX2 #define JOY_Y_PIN PF10 // RAMPS: Suggested pin A10 on AUX2 #define JOY_Z_PIN PF9 // RAMPS: Suggested pin A12 on AUX2 #define JOY_EN_PIN PC4 // RAMPS: Suggested pin D44 on AUX2
//#define INVERT_JOY_X // Enable if X direction is reversed
//#define INVERT_JOY_Y // Enable if Y direction is reversed
//#define INVERT_JOY_Z // Enable if Z direction is reversed
// Use M119 with JOYSTICK_DEBUG to find reasonable values after connecting: #define JOY_X_LIMITS { 0, 8000-400, 8190+400, 16384 } // min, deadzone start, deadzone end, max #define JOY_Y_LIMITS { 0, 8000-400, 8250+400, 16384 } #define JOY_Z_LIMITS { 0, 8000-400, 8080+400, 16384 } #define JOYSTICK_DEBUG #endif
Tuning the Joystick:
Once i got it all wired and plugged in. I attempted to “zero” the pots on the joystick as they are adjustable. I attempted to get the resting value to 8000 by unscrewing the adjuster and moving the pot manually. You can do this for Xand Y, but my joystick Z wasnt adjustable… luckily it was pretty close.
Once tuned, I pushed each axis to each side to get max and min. For me it was the whole darn range — thats ok.
I tried one of those and they have really poor resolution. It was extremely hard to get small movements, which is sorta the point of a joystick over simple jog buttons. Maybe you could glue a long stick onto it to get finer control. I didn’t try that hard before upgrading to the fancier joystick.
Also, it is possible to increase your dead zone so you don’t accidentally move one of the other axes. It’s a matter of personal preference if you prefer them touchy or if you want it to require more movement to respond.
yea - increasing deadzone is what i changed to today. youre right. exactly the functionality i wanted. also the endstops work great with the joystick as well. great job @jamiek. appreciate your work!
Is that with an arduino inside? A few have made external controllers like that before. Those have the advantage that you can program the buttons to do anything.
I can’t insert a youtube link to the video, but it can be found by searching for “Keypad9”
Many small changes have been made to Marlin for the display and one program in the Loop.
It’s very simple, but it works. Polling of analog inputs and simple programs like:
while(ReadSensor1(5,CntRead)) {
// Serial.println("Кнопка 9 ");
digitalWrite(Z_DIR_PIN,HIGH);
digitalWrite(Z_ENABLE_PIN,LOW);
for (int m = 0; m < 16; m++) {
digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN, HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(3);
digitalWrite(Z_STEP_PIN, LOW);
delayMicroseconds(100);}
Your Marlin didn’t want to work for me.