actually, I think the z motor belt sticking up from the right or left z belt holders are catching on the Y gantry … not being folded over anymore, I left enough so I could tighten it up… not certain since my video won’t render if the print fails.
EDIT: nope, that isn’t it. the std cali-lantern piece doesn’t move the gantry far enough forward for that to be a problem. Still overextruding.
z motors were at 0.75 A and A and B motors for XY motion were both at 1 A
I set the z at 0.85 A and the XY motors at 1.1 A.
the base layer is great, but can’t measure number 3 and 4 because there is no gap in the print. I’m going to print 1 more with this extruder and then if it isn’t making progress, put the new lite one on it. Sometimes the quest to pinch pennies is just a waste of time.
max xy accel was 5000 and z was 1000. They can be cut to 3500 and 200. The shaper frequency showed massive improvement at 44.6 Hz up to 5000 mm/s^2 to reduce ringing.
EDIT2: The fan shroud shifted down and was catching on the print.
put xy motors at 0.9, z motors at 0.8, acceleration is at 3500.
With the hardened nozzle, the temp has to be higher. It was too cold. retraction would leave pimples and the nozzle would catch on them. Did retraction tuning and changed the z hop to arrive at this beauty:
The retraction isn’t perfect, but the print quality is what I need and I can live with a little fuzz if it doesn’t lose steps and is dimensionally accurate. With the skew numbers, it should be pretty close now dimensionally. It was off by only up to 1 mm in a couple directions, but pretty close overall. I had to chase a slicer setting that was bridging the small gap on the base and that was problematic.
You will quickly be able to get within a tenth of a mm over a much larger print. When I got that white printer home from rmrrf then open sauce I ran a 150% version and was only off less than 0.2mm on the large diagonals after shipping it then transporting to another show and back.
currently test printing the z nut and the z stub parts to check for fit. Overextrusion has been the name of the game and so it will be interesting to see if this works this time. A lot of settings changes since the last attempt.
EDIT1:
Attempt #1 had a few skipped step precisely at the top of the lower part. Must have the ironing settings wrong… I messed with those a while back trying to shave print time and that apparently didn’t help, but the good news is the fit looks good. The pieces easily slide together with no binding, so if it hadn’t skipped, these would be good parts. Still a little fuzz. Reprinting with changed ironing settings to see if that makes it work.
Attempt #2
made it about 40% and missed steps. The motor missing is the only one on the system with an extension and with the upgrade from 4 to 5, it isn’t needed any longer. That extension will be removed. It isn’t likely to make a difference, but it is something I can do. The next attempt will need to have a constant observer to see why it is skipping steps.
Still happy with the z brake. That board looks lonely though.
The rear right xy motor… I"m calling it motor B. Second channel. Perhaps it is technically the Y motor on the board connection, but I feel totally justified. I thought it was a setting problem. It was a wire problem. Check this out:
No certainty on the root cause. It could be due to the 1.1 A setting, but that didn’t happen until after all the skipping. Much like my day job, I’m just over here breaking stuff trying to find the boundaries. The melted pin was lifted up and away from the board, so when things got going, it would likely lift off periodically causing the skip. There may have been no issue with any of the settings. There may be an issue with the motor, though it still works. I’m actually relieved to have found the cause of the skipping, but concerned as to why it happened.
I guess I have it wired backwards then. Figured it didn’t matter as long as klipper knows which one is wired where. This wire needs to be converted to the jsh plug like the others. Bad connection heated up. Interesting it made it through the LR4 Beta prints…
Each motor does not move either X or Y by itself. They each move both.
The standard reference I typically see is the B-A motor reference.
I sometimes see the B motor referred to as the Y motor, but I think people tend to avoid that to avoid confusion with Cartesian Y motion when speaking about it.
For the board and config file, I’m pretty sure the config file list [stepper_x] as mapped to the correct X port, it’s just not the way it is referred to for motion, I guess.
The last print still has retract fuzz, but no skipped steps. I think that was the problem. wow. Glad it is working better. Thanks for all the input on this! This is why we remove the plastic when using the dupont connectors on the JSH board plugs. As a general rule, these plugs get changed to match and that will happen soon on this motor connection.
Is your filament wet? Not sure what part of the country you live in. But for those of us down here in FL/LA we have to really watch out for the filament getting too wet. And it can cause all kinds of print issues. Brand new filament out of the box can be too wet to print with sometimes. And if your humidity level isn’t 25% or less normally I would be looking into drying it.
fixed the plug, new belts after the one on the left (used cheap ones… bad idea) and the one on the right is ok. Dimensions look better, but not perfect. Close enough for my needs for now.
