I have a Jackpot and have never tried an SKR. I don’t think one is necessarily “better” than the other. There are pros and cons to both. I think the Jackpot is easier to configure and deal with firmware updates. It also has a lot of options. For the FluidNC firmware that it uses, there has been a bit of firmware instability lately (but version 3.7.17 is fine) however it looks like they’ve got that sorted for the next release. It certainly is more actively developed. If you want a screen that doesn’t rely on wifi, maybe the SKR is a better choice. As mentioned there is a pendant that can be built for the Jackpot to achieve something like this.
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So, if you are one that loves to have every new feature, I would edge you to the Jackpot. The jackpot runs fluidnc and as they develop it, you can add to it.
Since you already have the skr pro, I would encourage you to at least try it. You don’t like it, then change. Alot of us have used marlin, I had an old ramps 1.4 board (2 in fact) there was not much I could not do with it that I can with Fluidnc.
Welcome.
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Define “Better”…
Both boards are capable. Features and user interface are different.
If you are familiar with Marlin from your 3D printer, or prefer a LCD screen interface, then the SKR is a great choice. There are some issues with the endstops that may require adding some resistor pigtails, but that is a small deal for a DIY type of person.
If you want to use a wireless interface with your phone or tablet as your input device, or if you don’t mind learning a new programming language, then Jackpot is a great choice. There have been some issues with wifi connectivity and unstable firmware releases, but those can be corrected fairly easily.
Note that you can run wireless (headless) on the SKR as well, but it requires additional hardware.
Not everyone is switching. It certainly is getting a lot more “press” from a lot of active forum members, just like the LR4 is getting a lot of “press” at the moment. But there are still LOTS of SKRs still in use (mine included), just like there are a lot of LR3’s that will remain in use for the foreseeable future (mine included). If you don’t feel the need to have the latest and “greatest”, then both the LR3 and the SKR are solid choices, especially if you already have them.
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Are you planning to run a mostly stock build, or are you planning to make a bunch of wild mods and add a bunch more axis/steppers? Depending on what you’re up to, something other than SKR or JackPot might be a good fit even.
I ran Marlin on SKR, with ESP-01 wireless module running ESP3D v3 WebUI for a while, the UI looks similar to FluidNC, but firmware is different… Was able to home and jog using tablet + BT keyboard. Worked great, until I killed the SKR, ended up with an Octopus. This was before JackPot existed. One frustrating downside to Marlin-SKR and ESP3D-ESP-01 is that file upload was horribly slow. That was ~2yrs ago, maybes protocol stuff has improved. FluidNC’s protocol/implementation is faster for uploading files.
Tried JackPot for my LR4, works great if using stable FluidNC build. If I was going Mod wild then would likely end up reusing my Octopus with Klipper. But, am planning to stick with JackPot-FluidNC for now, especially since V1E and FluidNC communities seem aligned and connected enough that progress and stability will play out.
Am done with Marlin when you have easier to tune options like Klipper and FluidNC.
Then there are outliers like me using Duet boards and RepRap Firmware because the ease of configuration there is outstanding. I like those very much.
I like the Jackpot and FluidNC, but it still has some quirks to it.
The thing I most like about the Duet (RepRap) firmware is that a machine configuration can be completely defined/redefined with gcode. It’s beautiful to see a machine configured this way. I keep thinking I’m going to play more with it on a BTT SKR or Octopus
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Thanks for the info. I’m not familiar with marlin, my 3dp runs klipper, but I kindof agree with some comments here that I should give the skr a go because I have it. even if I switch out to jackpot soon after.
Is there a way to pre-empt if I’ll need the pigtails?
I’m pretty excited. I have the LR3 kit, and the LR4 upgrade kit, and all the pieces printed except the core. So I just need to print the core and buy some rails and I’ll be ready to start assembly and maybe if I’m luck some alibration etc on the weekend.
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It is hit and miss if you will have the issue, although it seems that a lot of boards coming from BTT recently have the issue. It also seems to be somewhat dependent on endstop circuit resistance (I didn’t have the issue appear until I lengthened one extension cable by soldering on an additional length of wire).
There are several threads that show how to fabricate the pigtails (need six 1k - 1.5k resistors, six 2 conductor DuPont male connectors, six 3 conductor DuPont female connectors, and a couple of feet of AWG 24 wire).
The other option that some members have tried with success is to break or cut the LEDs on the endstop circuit, but that is destructive and will void any warranty.
They should not be needed we had the issue fixed a year or two ago.
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The LR3 kit I bought, shipped from you in April 23. It’s just new in box 
@vicious1 I should have bought the jackpot off you when I got the LR4 upgrade. Would have saved doubling up on shipping. I’ll make the skr work for now. Fingers crossed on not needing the pigtails.
It was not many of them overall and there is an easy fix of just popping off the indicator LEDs that are not very useful.
I have received a unit directly from BTT three months ago that had the issue…
REturn it, or pull off the LEDS.
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BTT warranty is a joke (IMO) it would have taken weeks/months and no assurance that they would acknowledge the problem.
I just added pigtails and was on my way in a few hours.
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Hey @Bartman so I’m almost ready to go.
I’ve got it all built, just have to tension and screw down the y belts to the table.
I tested endstops and have run m119 command and all endstops trigger open/triggered.
When testing the movement and triggers, I have been moving the z and x axis manually just to test, but they don’t stop. Is this showing I’m going to have the problem, or will I not know until I start homing/config?
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The end stops are only active during homing commands, driving into them does nothing.
You would not want to accidentally trigger one and ruin your active job, so they are only for precision homing, axis square/level.
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Excellent! Great progress!
LOL, If you screw the belts to the table, they won’t go through the motor. 
. (JK, I assume that you mean the belt holders)
As Ryan mentioned, this is 100% normal.