This is how I would have done it. Tinkercad is pretty good for simple edits like that.
In Fusion360 you can import the mesh, convert to a solid, fix the top fave and use the press/pull tool to stretch it…
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The one you referenced, [quote=“dkj4linux, post:20, topic:40169, username:dkj4linux”]
which manual Z-lift
[/quote], is the one I’m using. The problem is that the shaft is too close to the X carriage plate to fit the knob. I was thinking of putting another bearing at the top of the plate to support a longer Z screw, then fitting the knob. What CAD did you use to make the mechanism?
Edit: The leadscrew STL is too large to import into TinkerCAD. The file is 27MB and the Limit is 25MB I guess I’ll try FreeCAD.
Mike,
I used OnShape to do all the design work for all those Z-lifts I did. I apologize in advance for being so disorganized but you might find what you need in this Onshape document… it’s a cluttered mess. That dovetail slide version is in there as well and with a little adaptation would actually be the thinnest Z-lift design of all.
However, if OnShape isn’t your CAD of choice, I know FreeCAD handles STEP files so I’ve exported the knob and leadscrew as STEP files from OnShape as well. Hopefully they will load properly in FreeCAD for you.
Archive.zip (895.5 KB)
Hope that helps.
– David
Thanks, I’ll try that.
Mike,
You’ve “stirred the pot” per sey, and I’m debating on getting the Ortur enclosure again. Although madethebest.com (where I got my Ortur 2), is not as good of a deal as you received, after checking for a “deal” for almost a year, I’m still not finding it cheaper. It is the lowest it’s been in that year, but still a chunk of change.
Any thing you’re not happy with the enclosure as far as it’s quality? Or any reasons you can provide to inform me this is a bad idea? I’m sure it’s been a bit of a challenge being you are using it for a non Ortur machine, but you are the only person I know who has one, and that I value their opinion.
I think I was incredibly lucky to get this enclosure for the price. The only thing that was missing was a couple screws that may have fallen out when the prior owner was re-boxing it.
It is sturdy and well made, with two pneumatic pistons to lift the door. One of the pistons had lost it’s pressure, but I was able to find a replacement on Amazon. There is a small fan in the back with a fitting for an exhaust hose. I think the opening in the front is to access the controls on an Ortur M2 but I’ll just put a cover on that opening (or maybe an air inlet with louvers).
I have to decide how and where to install the Jackpot board, but for the moment I’m thinking either on one side or maybe on the front. In either case I need to extend the wires and get them all bundled.
Additional pictures later today.
Mike
Thanks for the feedback mike, albeit that just made a dent in the wallet.
I firmly feel I’ll be happy and be tempted to use the diode laser more with the enclosure.
At least until I decide to spend big bucks on the CO2 (IR or RF) laser. Reading good things about the RF, but man are they proud of those machines.
Here are pictures of the enclosure with the top and door off.
Note the position of the Jackpot board in the second picture: I’m thinking of placing it here in a box with two small fans on the front that blow air over the Jackpot and then into the enclosure. With the existing fan in the back that should really help the airflow through the enclosure while keeping the Jackpot cool and clean. It will also let me route all the cabling to the Jackpot without any additional hold or cutting in the sides of the enclosure.
There is an existing hole in the top of the enclosure that is a good place to have the air-assist feed into the system.
Onward and upward!!
Mike
@pony1023 I will keep you in the loop for the controller box, if you would like.
Mike,
I truly appreciate it, although it shouldn’t be a factor for me, as I’m putting the stock Ortur in. But if I find issues, and later modify, I will know who to contact.
As for the fans, it might be needed for your mods. I was going to remove Ortur’s fan, and put a larger inline duct fan, to make sure I clear the chamber of smoke. I’m also assuming the larger draw, is going to need some ‘intake’ ports. If you feel their fan might be undersized for your application, you might not need fans on the controller box, but a larger fan might pull fresh air through your controller box, as the intake?
I don’t know the length of duct you need to vent outside, in my case it’s not short, and a seriously doubt what looks to be a computer fan is going to push the distance I need. I fully acknowledge that fan is probably more than adequate for anyone setting the enclosure near a window less than 6 feet from the vent point. Maybe more once my enclosure arrives and I can have actual knowledge instead of speculation. I can’t seem to find good specs on the stock fan, like CFM, or pressure.
Here’s what I’m buying my son-in-law for Christmas (I’m going to use standard dust collection flex and PVC pipe)
I have two 10" ones in my shop to speedily extract fumes and fine dust - so I have some experience with them. Here’s what I know.
Don’t buy the really cheap versions - they are a lot noisier and have half the airflow.
Do add lots of inlet - perhaps 150% of the area of the fan. Even though the specs say the fan makes 37db, it sounds like 137, so put the fan as far from the box as you can, bearing in mind that every metre of ducting reduces the flow somewhat - and the outlet should be downwind of any openings in your house! 
Yes , you an I once again are on the same page.
It appears to be the same fan as the ones I was looking at on Amazon, although the one’s I was focusing on were either branded Vivosun, Vevor or AC Infinity.
They they all look alike, and branded differently.
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