Either way. I would just leave it, and not install any drivers. That way if someone wants the code to add a powered Z they can just install a driver and be ready.
pio26-27 should be ready for your ttf/pwm. I would think activating the laser part I commented out and commenting out the line you choose to you and I think you are ready to go. Unless you need another pin for air or something.
From there you can make a input an emergency stop button or an interlock.
More notes:
I took a cut at mapping the connectors on the JL1 controller. See below.
NOTE: Y steppers are wired in parallel!
Here’s a close up of the parallel wiring on the Y steppers. The connector for the X axis limit switch is the connector above the stepper. The right hand side has the harness going into the cable chain and on to the controller. The parallel stepper wiring that goes to the left runs through the 2040 extrusion (bit down the cable chain) across the X axis and when it emerges plugs into the Y stepper on the far side:
I also grabbed the GRBL settings. (I am not a GRBL expert; Posting here so we can refer to them as I adapt to the Jackpot board. I’ll try and translate these at some point and add comments)
$1=255 Step idle delay, milliseconds
$2=0 Step port invert, mask
$3=2 Direction port invert, mask
$4=1 Step enable invert, boolean
$5=1 Limit pins invert, boolean
$6=0 Probe pin invert, boolean
$10=1 Status report, mask
$11=0.010 Junction deviation, mm
$12=0.002 Arc tolerance, mm
$13=0 Report inches, boolean
$20=1 Soft limits, boolean
$21=1 Hard limits, boolean
$22=1 Homing cycle, boolean
$23=2 Homing dir invert, mask
$24=200.000 Homing feed, mm/min
$25=5000.000 Homing seek, mm/min
$26=250 Homing debounce, milliseconds
$27=1.500 Homing pull-off, mm
$30=1000 Max spindle speed, RPM
$31=0 Min spindle speed, RPM
$32=1 Laser mode, boolean
$100=80.000 X steps/mm
$101=80.000 Y steps/mm
$102=80.000 Z steps/mm
$110=5000.000 X Max rate, mm/min
$111=5000.000 Y Max rate, mm/min
$112=5000.000 Z Max rate, mm/min
$120=1000.000 X Acceleration, mm/sec^2
$121=1000.000 Y Acceleration, mm/sec^2
$122=1000.000 Z Acceleration, mm/sec^2
$130=220.000 X Max travel, mm
$131=290.000 Y Max travel, mm
$132=1.000 Z Max travel, mm
It’s a little weird to me that the laser module wiring and the endstop wiring are all on a single connector. This is unlikely to be an easy swap.
I’m most likely to split these out and make my own harness terminations when I map the various pins to the laser module.
I’m also debating whether to keep the parallel y stepper wiring.
Note also that there’s only a single limit switch for Y. If I don’t keep the parallel wiring for the Y steppers, then I wonder if it’s worth installing a 2nd limit switch for the 2nd Y.
That should make it easier to square up the machine, right?
I still need to work on getting the latest UI on my Jackpot board. I was able to flash it to 3.7.6 using the web based flasher. FluidNC Web Installer
That looks to have something besides the V1e GUI at first glance.
I was unable to use the .bat file in the V1e distribution as when I tried to run the .bat file it launched an x64 .exe. That old laptop has a 64 bit processor but as it only has 2Gb of RAM is running 32 bit windows. So, all I get from the .exe called by the .bat file is an error message noting it isn’t on the correct windows system.
I’m not sure how useful the crosshair laser pointer is to everyone, but on the stock (Pre-GRBL) firmware, the crosshair pointer turned on when powered up and turned off when the laser module was energized. Post GRBL flash, the crosshair laser does nothing.
I’m debating making it live again if there’s a way to map it to a button or some other FluidNC way of controlling it in an at least semi-standard way.
EDIT: Put annotations on the GRBL setting to help interpret them.
Hey @MakerJim, curious what’s the AWG equivalent of the ferrules you used for powering the board? Trying to figure out if the same ferrules would fit a 16AWG 10A connector.
@azab2c - Those were the smallest available ferrule I had in this no-name Chinese kit that I have. The white ones in the upper left:
Those wires in the stock power supply wiring are small. Smaller than 16AWG. Probably more like 20 or 22. Small.
Should be the same? After you flashed it you logged in over wifi and it looked different? Screenshot?
with a running jackpot you can actually do all the updating from the Webui itself. The bin and the .gz file I can take some screenshots tomorrow, both should be in the WIFI folder. you do an OTA update for the bin reboot and just upload the new html.gz file. reboot.
Yeah there area few open button to use.
For the rest I would just wire it as is and make it work. Changing any wiring is much easier after you have proven it out as is. Not much point in dual an such a small machine.
Noting a detail from @dkj4linux original thread about the JL1 Here:
He was able to use a cheapo controller and there is detail on how he connected the laser module shown in this picture from that thread. (He didn’t use limit switches nor the crosshair pointer. )
This is great detail and I’m appreciative of his taking the time to document it.
Using the orientation of that connector on the “Laser” header on the board, I’ll have an easier time mapping things out. Still mining his thread for additional details. Good stuff!
Editing to add the wiring guide for the Mana SE board shown above. This will help me (and maybe others) when interpreting the wiring shown above.
Looks like the far left is +12V (motor/board inlet power), then GND, and then PWM. This makes sense as the 4th position in the JL1 connector goes to a limit switch, and that limit switch uses the GND as well, which is why the JL1 harness has two wires in the 2nd position from left on the “LASER” connector.
When I ran the web flasher the first time, after logging back in I had just a file upload menu instead of the GUI.
Just tried again, and this time I appear to have a working GUI and I’m still on 3.7.6. No idea what I screwed up along the way. I’ll wait for those screenshots tomorrow.
At least it looks like it’s robust and at least fairly “Jimmy proof” Speaking as a Jimmy myself, of course 
Good suggestion.
I will need to break out the limit switch that is shared with the laser module connector as I do want to use limit switches on my JL1. They really aren’t technically necessary- but I like repeatability. The limit switch connectors are the wrong size to just drop on the Jackpot headers.
By the way, what is the correct mating connector for the limit switch IO headers on the Jackpot?
Jim,
I have re-engaged with my rebuild of the JL1 as well, but when I tried to run it today the laser “spot” was all blurry. Occasionally it would snap back to a point, but I have no ides what’s going on. Rather than try and replace the laser module I guess I’ll just build a bigger version to put in the Ortur enclosure.
Mike
Mike- Let me know if I can help in any way. That’s a really weird sounding laser module problem. Is the lens loose?
Below is the mounting hole pattern on the JL1 frame for the stock controller box. I forgot to take measurements when I had it apart for pictures so I’ll grab those next time.
@vicious1 are there any stock mounts for the Jackpot that I can remix. It should be fairly simple to put 3 holes into a box that is otherwise suitable for the Jackpot.
The three circled holes are how the stock controller box is mounted.
The flat head screws go to standoffs that mount the y axis limit switch on a little PCB.
Edit to add: Of course, there’s a beautiful design to put the Jackpot on an LR3 on Printables, but unfortunately that isn’t quite right to slap here. I’ll think about it some more.
https://www.printables.com/model/561771-jackpot-cnc-controller-minimal-lr3-case/files
It didn’t appear loose, I did remove it to check for debris and found something that seems to be between the diode and the lens.
That silver bit in the lower right doesn’t appear to be loose, but I can’t believe it should be there.
Mike
Holy cow! That looks like the laser diode itself is loose within the assembly. Can not be good!
But, if it was that, I can’t imagine how it would still be getting powered, unless they bonded the laser diode into the lens housing with flying leads or something.
No way that’s right.
Jime,
I noticed that the wire lengths were “just enough” for the lengths as installed.
I bought this 6-conductor wire and intend to have a little more slack.
Mike
Jim,
I also made a set of leg risers so I could place a larger object below the whole frame:
They add 50mm to the height of the legs. I used one of @dkj4linux manual z-axis adjusters so I can lower the laser to the correct height, even with the leg extenders on.
Mike
The laser module on the Cenoz machine was terrible… never focused to a nice spot and had sorry power. I had several other laser modules on hand… common 3-pin versions for +12V, GND, and PWM. If you use the included laser module’s wiring to identify those 3 wires – and the black wires they hook to – you can then mark the black wires and and install a new laser module on there. That what I did here…
They are just standard 2.54mm headers.
If you follow the link from the docs page I have included the cad for my LR3 box but that is the only one I know of at this time. My top priority is get the LR3 and MPCNC squared away before trying anything custom.
I too bought one of these and I’m watching your progress with interest. I don’t have another raspberry pi to run it, so I’ve been thinking about putting it on the mpcnc or the 3d printer, but a jackpot might be the answer here.
It has been reprogrammed to GRBL, and has a rotary and some blanks for leather patches and some pens… one of these days.
Doing some work on the config.yaml.
The original JL1 controller GRBL setup seems to be 80 steps/mm.
What’s the microstepping setup on the Jackpot?
The example config.yaml has 800 steps/mm, so I’m sure I’ll need to change this.
Moving on to the laser section, Ryan noted:
So, I think that means that my config for laser should look like this:
Laser:
pwm_hz: 5000
output_pin: gpio.26
enable_pin: gpio.27
disable_with_s0: false
s0_with_disable: true
tool_num: 100
speed_map: 0=0.000% 255=100.000%
Those are found on the screw terminals in the 5V out section of the Jackpot:
I’m going to do a stupid simple flat adapter plate to mount the jackpot for now.
The hole spacing I came up with on the JL1 for the existing controller box is 35.5mm horizontally for the upper mounting holes and 72mm between the upper two and the lower one.
I’ll need to measure the Jackpot as I get 73mm between mouting holes vertically and 93mm horizontally on the 3.55mm diameter mounting holes. The horizontal spacing isn’t explicitly called out but I bet it is the same 3.49mm up as well as over as shown in this bit from the documentation:
I’ll sketch a mounting plate up and get it on one of the printers, then will work on transferring some of the harness over. Perhaps another update later.
