It's time to ice the MPCNC

It’s time. I’ve got to decide whether I’m going to disassemble and rebuild the Burly smaller or do a fresh build up of the Primo (all pieces already printed). The destination is the freezer.

I’ve used the Burly outdoors in the freezing cold so I know how it will perform for me. There may be a corner cap here or there that I need to reprint when I disassemble it but otherwise it could be as simple as disassemble, cut tubes to right length and reassemble onto the cart or whatever I’ll use to take the machine in and out of the freezer.

Here’s the thing - I still need a larger format CNC too - one with a working area of 18" X 22" let’s say. The one for the freezer needs a working area of 10" X 10" (I may make it 10X20 if that size of machine isn’t too big for the little freezer I’ve got to work with). At 10X10 I feel like Primo might be overkill? Depth of cut on the 10 X 10 machine will NEVER be more than 1/4" and will NEVER be bigger than a 1/8" endmill.

Which should go to the freezer and which should be rebuilt to the new size? I hope to use the one NOT in the freezer to also play with milling aluminum if that helps make the decision a no brainier.

Lastly, this 10X10 will use the MiniRambo (I have four of them here doing nothing), so no end stops/squaring - just hard stops. Can I use the I-think-it’s-a-Rambo that I’m currently running on my Burly for the Primo build? I was scrolling through the V1 store earlier and see that the world is switching to the SKR?

4 Likes

Just throwing this out there……maybe it’s LR3 time? Easier to move in and out of the freezer, can just lift from the table. As I said, I only need 1/4” DOC.

Actually thinking more……why couldn’t I build one LR3, two tables? Size the LR3 for a 20” cut width which would give me my 10x20 inside the freezer and build a second table outside of the freezer that would give me 20x24 or so? If the length of travel is set in the firmware then I just need to make sure I only use 10” of travel in the freezer.

For the machine outside of the freezer I’d need at max 1 1/2” DOC.

3 Likes

You’re the worldwide expert on MPCNCs in the cold. So I can’t offer advice w.r.t. that. The Primo is a step up over the Burly.

The LR3 is a fun machine to build and run. It could be attached to multiple tables. Rerouting new belts each time might be a little bit if a pain. But it is less than a minute, probably. There isn’t much increase in rigidity to make the belt dimension shorter. Making the gantry smaller does make it more rigid. You should do dual endstops on a LR3.

The Z on the LR is a bit different in that it is more rigid at the bottom and pretty much has a max Z height unless you choose a modified version.

The rambo is fine, but not as good for lasers. The skr pro is good at everything. The jackpot is the newest and runs a form of grbl with wifi built in. The only screen available for the jackpot is in new development, but seems pretty solid.

1 Like

Could well be. The LR3 definitely benefits from endstops on the Z axis though, to help level it.

If you want to play with different boards, I have a few that are set up for the LR3 already. I have a Jackpot, a Duet and an SKR Pro more or less ready to go for a test drive.

2 Likes

Wow! Well that’s something I’ll definitely take you up on. That’s so great of you. Thanks. I’ll get printing this weekend and when I’m getting close to the brains part I’ll let you know. If your number hasn’t changed I still have it in my phone. Ends in **98?

1 Like

Yes that’s still the number.

1 Like

So, I had a little slop in my MPCNC. I’m sure some of it was bearing adjustment related. But I think this would have also been a bit of the problem…to be fair I did know about one or two of these issues but I didn’t realize it was machine wide problem. Discovered during disassembly as I continue to overhaul all that happens in this garage.

This won’t be the last you see if the black and blue burly bits though. Had a stroke of brilliance as I was tearing it apart. Stay tuned.

1 Like