See this post for dimensions and whatnot.
https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/table-plans/#post-47543
See this post for dimensions and whatnot.
https://www.v1engineering.com/forum/topic/table-plans/#post-47543
Oh snap, new fancy table…Can’t wait to see it.
Me either!! :lol:
Following.
Soon as I get time I’m doing this but with 4 Paulk sections totalling 9’ x 5’.
I know lining them up will be a pain, but I’m planning to introduce a registration system on the sides so they line up. I’m pretty sure I’ll go with Paulk style saw horses as well, with some kind of dial in for height.
What are you doing for legs?
I’m going to reuse the base I already have for the current table. I’ll just have to shorten the legs a bit. I’m planning on using T nuts and bolts to lock the two pieces together and align them. Figure I can just use a couple clamps to clamp over the seam on the ends to flush them, then drill the holes.
All the parts are rough cut out now. Started cutting the holes on the first two pieces. One big one for the ends and inside parts, and the four holes for the side pieces. Once these are finished and the transitions are sanded smooth I can use them as patterns for the rest of the parts. Everything else will be a quarter inch smaller, but that’s okay. I didn’t want to make the pattern parts bigger. It’s about 25F in the barn and I didn’t feel like sitting down to do the math… Like my dad always says, I ain’t got no good math(or english).
[attachment file=47851]
For those not playing the google photos game.
Also!! If you’re going to use pocket screws, check your depth on some scrap first! I drilled several dozen holes in all the parts, can’t use any of them… The pockets are too deep, so the screws pop out the sides. Staples it is!
Second top done! It’s flatter than the first. My mistake was to just attach the top board on without checking the fit. I don’t have a table big enough to sit these on while building, and the saw horses don’t support the last foot on either end. This lets the whole assemble sag a little. On the second part I lifted the ends once I sat the top on before stapling them in place. Used a couple clamps on the corners to hold it in place, then I filled in the center staples. It still sags, but I think it would do that under its own weight anyway. Next project is to take a sawzall to the old table to get it out of the way. Maybe tomorrow.
I watched a few videos on making a flat work surface without having a flat work surface to reference. Pain in the butt. Once you have a nice flat table everything so much easier to build. Took my Dad’s build table for granted.
Stopped by Harbor Fraught and picked up their cheapest handheld belt sander. I forgot I cut the end/stretcher parts slightly long so I could cut to the correct length after I mounted the two long side pieces. I didn’t assemble the first one in that order… So, one end is too wide now. I tried to pull it back apart when I realized what I did, it was just going to break(and did break) the plywood. That corner sticks out about an 8th inch now. Wouldn’t be a problem, but the rails will get pushed out, which will cause binding. I can just sand that part flush with the top and bottom sheets, so the side will be a little thin there, but I can make it so it’s on the inside of the finished table. Looking at them today the propeller shaped one isn’t as propeller shaped anymore, so I think I’ll be okay once everything is mounted on the base, which I can make flat. I have to cut down the legs on it anyway, the new top is about 5 inches thicker than the old one. We’re setting up for a house concert tonight, so no playing in the barn for me today.
[attachment file=47875]
That looks pretty sweet. Every seat is the best seat in the house.
Yeah, we only had a dozen folks show up, so we didn’t have to break down the couch too much.
One rail mounted! I reached in from the ends to trace the holes for the ends, but can’t reach the center holes good enough to trace them. So, I won’t have holes in the center. Now that I have the rail in place I can see a slight bow to the whole table still, but that can be adjusted for when the spoil board gets surfaced. Maybe this router will have enough ass behind it to use my surfacing bit. If not, it’s going to take a while with a quarter inch end mill!
[attachment file=47931]
3/4" HD foam and surface that? I really like cutting on top of that stuff, flip it when it gets too funky and keep going.
I like that idea. My folks will be up this weekend, so Dad can help me get it. Pretty sure the ride home in the back of the Element would kill the foam.
This is why I’m not an engineer…
[attachment file=47937]
The tubes aren’t long enough to span the table, and the unistrut…
Well, technically I am an engineer and I went to go pick up some 3/8" MDF today after basing a design around it only to find despite what the internet says the lumber yard and 2 big box stores don’t carry it…and 3/8" plastic is stupid expensive.
So maybe you are an engineer?
Just blame it on the cold, everyone knows tubes shrink when it’s chilly.
Do you have a band saw big enough?