I did plug it into the blue usb ports in the back of my desktop computer.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I’ll keep trying them.
I just put 3.8.4-Pre7 on my JL1 laser today.
I used one of my generic V1 purchased ESP-32s which I believe is the same as what you have.
(It’s not the newer V1 genuine ESP-32s, which I also have)
This ESP-32 has the pull-up resistor mod as it’s also in an older Jackpot board.
I pulled it out of it’s Jackpot, put it on one of my Linux Boxes with a USB cable, then ran erase, load-wifi, and then load-fs. In all of that, I didn’t have to touch the Boot button. It came right up on WiFi, I put the config.yaml back on it, and the JL1 is up and running.
As a side note, I didn’t have problems with Pre6, but apparently there were issues.
Pre7 is running fine for me.
You may want to consider whether you need the pull-up resistor.
Can you provide pictures of the front and back of your spare ESP-32?
I’ll have to go back and find that pull-up resistor mod and I’ll try it. Couldn’t hurt.
Here is the Front of my ESP-32:
And back:
That shouldn’t matter except if running on the Jackpot itself. I have an older Jackpot and my mod is on the Jackpot itself.
Boy, I kind of feel dumb. I did a search and found a pull-up mod entry…one that I started (and using the same ESP32 board). [ Adding Pull-up resistor to original (version 1.0) Jackpot PCB]
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No need to feel dumb at all. We learned some things along the way about ESP-32s. If anything, we were dumb early on- not you 
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I’ve now encountered a variety of ESP-32 dev boards. USB-C variants, genuine V1, Generic (sold by V1), generic (Sold by amazon).
Some DO need the pullup mod even off a Jackpot if you want to avoid pushing the BOOT button to laod firmware.
One dev board sent to me for analysis wouldn’t load, it’d been installed backwards on a jackpot. It wasn’t “dead” but it also wasn’t alive in that it wouldn’t flash. I’ll eventually replace the 3V3 regulator and see if it recovers.
You have a genuine V1 ESP-32 Dev board. As @jeyeager notes, this one SHOULDN’T need a pullup mod unless something odd has happened to it.
If your board won’t load with BOOT held in and directly connected to a PC, then I’m starting to wonder if it’s seen its way into a jackpot wrong way round. That’s the only way I know to make them unloadable over USB (Save for breaking off the USB connector).
I felt that…
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I’ve busted one off too, had my Laptop hooked up to the JL1 over USB, finished a job, got up and walked away with the laptop. Happy I only snapped a USB connector. Almost dropped the laptop.
Moral: Don’t be dumb, and if you are: hope to be lucky.
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As I wait for a new ESP32 board arrive from Ryan, I was thinking if I have something wrong with my Jackpot board (v1 with a resistor between the boot gpio0 and the 3.3v pin) then that might explain why my ESPs are getting VERY hot and not working.
If I do not have the ESP plugged in and give the Jackpot 24v should there be 3.3 volts at the 3.3v pin of the where the ESP would be? (And the same for the 5v pin?)
No.
The ESP-32 makes its’ own 3V3 on board from the Jackpot 5V power.
The test I think you should do is to measure the 5V power on the (empty) ESP-32 connector when the Jackpot is powered up from you external power supply. The Jackpot is responsible for generating that 5V source which is what the ESP-32 uses to make its’ onboard 3V3.
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Ok. Thanks MakerJim. Just did that test and I get 5 volts. So the board is good from that respect. I’m just scratching my head to figure out what I’m doing that is causing me to ‘burn up’ these ESPs. Once the new one comes in, I’ll just put FluidNC on it with the WEBUI (I did go with v3 due to some of the layout changes that I liked and used better than v2) and leave it alone.
At one point I did have the FluidDial pendant up and working, but I now get the big fat NC (no connection). I’ll have to mess with that once I get back up and cutting for a while or when I can order a few more extra ESPs in case I ‘burn up’ another one 
Keep a forum thread active for your build and we’ll keep an eye on things for you.
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