Since I have the version 1.0 board (purchased prior to 11/18/23), would that mean I need to add this pull-up resistor to this board to get the genuine Espressif ESP32-Wroom-32E-N8 (just purchased) to work? I am having difficulty getting this to show up (either in AP or STA mode).
When out of the Jackpot PCB and on the bench and plugged into the computer via USB - it seems to behave (meaning, it works in AP or STA mode). Once I plug it into the Jackpot (again 1.0 ) PCB, it doesn’t show up at all (either in AP or STA mode).
I purchased this new ESP board because I think (somehow) I bricked my original ESP32-Wroom-32D. I can not get it to go into bootloader mode and the ESP chip (under all that metal) gets hot. So I think somehow I’ve messed it up beyond being able to bring it back to life.
Is there an easy way to add this pull-up resistor to the board (maybe on the bottom) vs. adding it to the ESP board? (I purchased 2 ESP boards just in case I mess something up again) and would rather mod the Jackpot version 1.0 PCB vs. the plug in ESP board.
I’ll go try the fluidnc team tools (first I have to understand it ;-). I did use some other phyton tool, but no matter when or how I pressed the boot button, it didn’t work.
Shoot I am working off my phone and can’t find it. There is a picture floating around here but I can’t find it. You can see the labels on the esp, I believe it is the 6th pin in on the drivers side.
Include the pull-up resistor size also. I had to scan and read and as I understood it, somewhere between a 1K to 4.7K ohm resistor would work. I went with 1K and it looks like it is working for me.
Now to put it back in the case and re-connect all the stepper motors and endstops and test once more
I looked at their github and I was lost, but I did find a site that explained how to use the esptool.py tool. Tried that and still no go. The longer I have it plugged into the USB, the hotter is gets. I think this one is fried/no good. I never saw the magic smoke leave it (darn!) so I can only go by the fact that it is just not behaving.
If anyone else has any ideas, I’m open to them. Not a major concern since I have the new one and its working.
In the FluidNC distribution, there should be an erase.bat or an erase.sh . Plug in the ESP32 over USB and run that. It should wipe the device. Post the output either way and we’ll take next steps.
Sorry for the delete. I thought I saw an error on my part and didn’t want to post it. I ended with the same message:
win64\esptool.exe --chip esp32 --baud 921600 dump_mem 0x3ff5a018 4 SecurityFuses.bin
The system cannot find the path specified.
esptool failed
Press any key to continue . . .
I did do this wrong the first time. Now I think I ran it correctly:
win64\esptool.exe --chip esp32 --baud 921600 dump_mem 0x3ff5a018 4 SecurityFuses.bin
esptool.py v3.1
Found 4 serial ports
Serial port COM7
Connecting…
COM7 failed to connect: Write timeout
Serial port COM6
COM6 failed to connect: could not open port ‘COM6’: OSError(22, ‘The semaphore timeout period has expired.’, None, 121)
Serial port COM13
Connecting…………………_____
COM13 failed to connect: Failed to connect to ESP32: Timed out waiting for packet header
Serial port COM1
Connecting…………………_____
COM1 failed to connect: Failed to connect to ESP32: Timed out waiting for packet header
A fatal error occurred: Could not connect to an Espressif device on any of the 4 available serial ports.
esptool failed
Press any key to continue . . .
Yes the red LED light comes on when plugged in.
The ESP was off the Jackpot board.
I do not believe any drivers where changed. When the ESP gets plugged into the USB port, COM13 appears and when unplugged COM13 port goes away. So I think the USB port is seeing something get plugged in.
That’s good, windows sees and enumerates the serial bridge.
It appears the ESP bootloader isn’t running, or maybe the serial hardware handshake lines arent pulling the signals around. (Leaving the bootloader not running)
Can you post a good high resolution picture of your ESP?
What happens if you hold the boot button when plugging in the ESP?
If that doesn’t get you able to run the erase:
unplug and re-plug the ESP
start fluidterm
try alternately the reset and boot buttons. See if you get any serial output at all while doing that.
Holding down the BOOT button, didn’t seem to do anything.
Unplugging and re-plugging the ESP and then starting fluidterm and then uploading the bootloader.bin file seemed to have got it ‘unstuck’.
It gave me a bit of some jibberish, and then I stopped fluidterm and then tried the erase.bat file again and it showed that it erased the flash.
I just tried the FluidNC Web Installer and it sees the ESP and is able to upload the lastest FluidNC release. But now it will not show the filesystem for me to upload my initial yaml.conf file. I’m most likely just going to put this ESP to the side. The ESP (the metal part) gets VERY hot when plugged in, so I just don’t trust it.
EDIT: It is acting very temperamentally. One moment it seems to respond and other times it doesn’t. I hadn’t had an issue with this since I started to try to get my FluidDial pendant hooked up to it. I’ll keep poking at it. Maybe put a large fan on it to keep it cool or add that pull up resistor to this one to see if that helps.
Bottom line: Thank you for the suggestions. I think I’ve found the right combo to get the bootloader to work and to erase the flash.
