Nope, I made a flying extruder for my rostock. Yea, it doesn’t come with a hot end, but they post all their adapters on thingiverse.
AHHHHHHHHH dammit. I finally have the LCD working as of this morning. Yesterday’s updates from the main Marlin 2.0 buggered up the rest of the system now…grrrrr. I tried to roll back the main updates but just made a mess of things so I will wait for it to get sorted, probably just a missing comma or something.
Dang it I had tests to run, MP3DP V1’s to update…
Side note, I did some driver tuning tests…There are definitely too low of settings, at about a 0.5V on the drv’s I was getting nasty textures, ramp them all back up and bam smooth sailing. My two mini-rambo printers were printing sooo much nicer, it spurred this whole tuning fiasco. The digipots really make this easy but the ramps are holding there own again after some driver tuning. Can’t remember why I had turned them down in the first place, bad bearings causing hot steppers I think.
Yep.
[attachment file=51805]
HAHAHAHAHAH
I keep refreshing the page to see if the updates have been fixed, and came across this thread. And in that thread the is a gcode analyzer!!!
This is how you can visualize your tuning. So awesome. http://www.gcodeanalyser.com/
I figured out how to revert the two bad commits, hopefully I didn’t screw anything up for the fix when it happens. Look for some MP3DP firmware updates shorty for both versions.
Along with new suggestions for default speed, acceleration and jerk? B)
So far I have 1600 and 10. If I remember right. The file is on my github. I will probably revisit it one more time now that we have the visualizer. I have printed a few things now with the new settings and it only sounds funky doing quick infill so I think bringing it back down to 5 jerk fixes that. But the prints look great just spend a little more time checking it.
Looking at the visualizer I think i was right my moves are being limited by the extruder so I want to sort through it.
Thinkyhead found another issue with the planner, last segments are getting disconnected for some reason.
Great visualizer and great issue thread. No one is that thorough for free on the internet. Almost no one.
That is a cap to optionally cover the X axis stepper.
Ryan, I am pretty new to all this. Used my MPCNC to mill out the frame for an MP3DP v2. Build is about complete. I want to use your latest firmware on GitHub… In the MP3DP_Ramps_16T_MK branch, there are 2 files, Configuration.h and Configuration_adv.h.
I’m not sure how to proceed from here. Do I grab Marlin 2.0 and replace these files with yours?
I’m really clueless. I see that the Bugfix_2.0 only has the 2 files as well. I’m sure this is ridiculously simple.
You can get the beta 2.0 branch here:
But I don’t think you’d be unhappy with the older, but stable firmware for the v1 machine (nothing has changed that needs a software update):
https://www.v1engineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/MP3DP511.zip
That is assuming you have the ramps and not the Rambo control board.
Personally, I have a hard time recommending 2.0 until they actually make a release on it. And if you’re not confident with this stuff, then I’d wait a bit longer even.
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I agree, I would stick with the older firmware.
To use the 2.0 you need to download the complete zip file, and use the newest arduino beta. Downloading from github is shown here.
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Im not savvy enough on thingiverse to figure dimensions out. What is the size of the xz frame? It looks to be the biggest part milled out of one piece. Also, I cant find a kit for the MP3DP. With my medical situation and a youn child i dont get to spend as much time with my MPCNC as I went on would like. This seems like something I could bring inside and tinker with. Is it as user friendly as the MPCNC? I am pretty mechanical but when you guys talk about reflashing, coding and micro-blah blah blah I turn into a 2 year old watching a magician!
14.75"x14.5"
Tough question. This in not the cheapest nor the easiest printer to use. It requires a lot of DIY. I made it to be a project not really a product. I carry most of the parts but they are also pretty common items.
What are the max. dimensions of the assembled printer for building an enclosure?
Thanks
I “need” a high temp setup so I can play around with a plethora of different materials.
I am starting to source parts for my build. I am done with printing the parts. Since I am from Europe I need to source the non M3 screws. M3.5 is as hard to get here as 6-32, so I am going to get the 6-32’s from my dealer for imperial stuff.
As material for the frame I am planning on using 10mm (or maybe 8mm - the corners might be a better fit with the 10mm thick one, and I could mill it down to 3/8 of an inch where they screw into the corners, so that they are flush) thick, black HDPE (I don’t want to paint stuff). For the bed I was thinking 3mm thick carbon fiber, although that might be overkill - maybe I’ll start with the HDPE and go from there.
Extruder and Hotend will be the suggested E3D aero setup with high temperature upgrades (different heater cartridge and thermo couple instead of Thermistor). Heat bed will be E3D’s mains powered Hight Temperature Heat bed. Brainbox will probably be the einsy board and a full graphics controller with SD card reader.
Motors and some of the rods I will recycle from my old printRbot. Since I decided on some rather more expensive components, this might turn out to be a multi stage build - I hope to get it done by end on July.
This post is just meant as sanity check - does anything in here sound stupid to anyone?
It all sounds good to me. The one thing you did not mention that may be the biggest problem is the power supply. The heated bed will need a LOT of power. Amps being the most important number to look for. I am pretty sure you can look up how many amps the bed will require. I am like 95% sure Einsy board can handle the amps to the heated bed (it is a great board). You will just need to make sure you find a power supply that can push enough amps to keep your heated Bed running.
Because if you are going to experiment with several material types then sometimes you will need the higher bed temperatures. Many of the cheaper heated bed, Main board, and power supply combinations can’t sustain a temperature above 70 C.
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