And of course as I was playing around with it during my lunch break, this
happened
Yikes! Did you buy the parts from Ryan? If not, you may have the wrong type of timing belt. Some belts are steel reinforced. Given the small radius around the pulley, the steel breaks in these types of belts.
I have taken a couple of different approaches with this kind of thing. One approach is to mount your fixture at a known offset from the machine home. As part of the fixture making process, I have the router bore two holes at opposite edges of the fixture that pass through the fixture and into the spoil board. Hardwood pins are then used in these holes so I can be assured that the fixture is always placed at the same location and at the same rotation. Personally, I use 3/8" hardwood dowels for the pins, and I run a test bore to make sure the particular dowel I purchased at Home Depot is a tight fit to the holes bored. I bore 3/8" to 1/2" into the spoil board. So, the process is something like this:
- In CAM, I use the center/top of the fixture as the job origin.
- I home my machine
- I move my router electronically to the area of the spoil board I want to use for my fixture. I move the router first so I can pick some easily remembered offset from my home position.
- Record the router location (X,Y).
- I place the approximate center of my fixture stock under my router bit
- Clamp the fixture stock
- Carve the fixture
- I write the offset used on the fixture.
Now, using the pins and the recorded offset, I can always return the fixture to the same location on my spoil board, and I know the location relative to my machine home of the center of that fixture, and the fixture will be aligned correctly.
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Yeah, these were the originals I bought from Ryan a couple years ago. New ones on order now
Iāll have to give that process a try, once the new belt arrives of course. Appreciate the write-up!
That is the first Iāve seen that. Nice work.
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I need help finding All ZERO in the menu of my LR3 new build menu before starting my gcode.
Hmmm. Good question. I suppose you could use the terminal and enter G92 X0Y0Z0 but thatās not really the answerā¦ Unless it isā¦
I was hoping to add it to the menu on the screen ( Custom Gcode) but do not know how .
I think the custom gcode is set in the config.ini file. But I am AFK.
Can how do do I activate to in the in the config.ini file
1.Zero X
2.Zero Y
3.Zero Z
4.Zero All
It will be a very good feature form the TFT LCD - so I do not have to add the Gcode Start text from Estlcam software .
While this is not what you are asking for, if you hold down the knob for 2 seconds, you can put your screen in Marlin mode. In Marlin mode, Marlin is driving the display, not the TFT firmware. In Marlin mode, there is a V1 custom menu with a menu item that allows you to zero all axes. In addition, it is easy to customize the V1 custom menu to modify or add menu items that execute specific g-code. It does require you to recompile and reflash Marlin (not the TFT firmware). Again, not the solution you are looking for, but perhaps a workaround if you donāt solve adding custom menu items to the touch display
If you use Ryanās start gcode in estlcam it will auto set zero when you start your program. And set you up to Home z with the touch plate. I didnāt even notice you couldnāt get to that in Tft mode since I donāt use it anymore.
Code is hereā¦just make sure you select lr3 or primoā¦