Im totally confused when trying to put an LR3 package together. Help?
A little more information would be good.
What all are you looking for?
If you are looking for “the whole thing” then you need:
and maybe
The printed parts will have printed XZ plates, so you might not need the metal ones.
You will also need a control board. If you buy the RAMBo it should come with endstops, but if you buy the SKR Pro, then you will need additional endstop switches.
If you read the description of the hardware kit, it does say what else might be needed. What you choose depends on if you choose to and can print your pwn parts, or if you can get your own flat parts. Some people can and have printed the YZ plates, too.
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Don’t forget to budget for a router
bits $25:
and maybe $200 - $300 for a table.
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I have the dewalt compact. But now ime wondering if the makita is a better choice 
?
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If you have the dewalt and don’t need it elsewhere, use it. It’s good.
If it can service you as a palm router elsewhere AND you have the budget, get a makita or one of the clones (that retains the speed control).
Is slightly smaller, so generally the endmill can be closer to the gantry (guaranteed on the MPCNC, and i think the same for the LR3 given how it’s mounted, but not the LR2). That OUGHT to be a slight rigidity advantage, but I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong.
On top of that, the makita can reach much lower speeds and about the same top speed. Cutting wood, I’d usually go full-send but acrylic and other soft stuff is much more forgiving at low RiPpeMs.
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Looking for the parts you list, and the conroller and tft screen. I kept ending up with about 600 total. But Ryan says it should be around 800? Wondering if i forgot something.
Possibly router + pipe/screws/inevitable errors? haha
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The costs add up in $5-$20 chunks. Things like metric screws, lead screws, belts and pulleys all add up. I sourced my first machine myself as I couldn’t afford to buy the package in a single purchase. I was thinking I’d come out ahead on cost but really I pretty much broke even on the stuff in the hardware kit vs Ryan’s shop. Him sourcing and packaging it in a single kit is definitely worth it. There are cheaper boards out there that work but the boards Ryan sells are quality ones and come pre-configured which is worth about 2-4 hours of time savings.
The printed and cut stuff is where you can probably save money if you have the time and access to a 3d printer. There’s probably $50 plastic there and if you have the 60-70 hours of print time to spare you can save 100 +/-. The cut parts are also easy if you have a friend with a cnc.
The table will cost more than you think if you are doing a full sized build. Figure at least $200 for a build like mine and some guys build far nicer.
Also once you get close to being done the idea bug strikes you and you start adding hose management . kill switches, and other non stock features that run up the total.
I think my LR2 came in at $650 but I had some of the parts on hand so probably closer to $700.
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I forgot about the table!
I would also second ordering from the V1 Store
I think my biggest issue with the LR2 was the (presumably) mislabeled steppers I bought from AliExpress.
Add in the incorrect parts and waiting times and the V1 Store is well worth the (very little tbh) extra money.
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I was going to order from the store. Ive been down enough rabbit holes to know its better to buy from the builder. Btw, i found the makita router for 99 at homedepot.
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LR3 Docs link to 1 1/2" Vac hose @ Amazon.com
Curious if many folks use 2-1/2" instead, would you recommend Amazon.com or something else? Planning on hookup to existing shop vac for now, for now…
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I’d like to hook into my DC, i really hate noise. 
I downloaded the printables file. Opened the LRCore and used cura to slice it. Came out like 35 hours to print. So im guessing i have a setting wrong in cura?
Maybe, what’s your printer? My relatively stock Ender 3 Max, 0.6mm nozzle, 0.32mm layer height, Cura 5.0.0 took 14h 40mins. Am no 3D printing expert, have seen folks on this forum get great prints much faster.
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Ender 3 pro. 0.4 nozzle.
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I have the skr mini e3 v3 in it.
What infil pattern are you using?
35% for Core, looks like I just followed LR3 doc. For most other parts, I added 10% more infill beyond the recommended. Used 3 walls, and customized some other stuff, shared my Cura 5.0 profile at Purple-black-rainbow LR3 🤷‍♂️ , build video @ https://youtu.be/FJ7nYio8oOE - #9 by azab2c
Hoping a 3D expert out there will share an awesome Ender 3 something profile they’re proud of.