Help develop MP3DP v5!?!

But we haven’t even talked about where all the LEDs go!!!

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Duh…everywhere!

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So we also do not have a clear consensus on the stationary bed. Since we need a brake of some sort or gearing either way. Are we all on the same page that a moving bed has a better fail safe? Or do some moving gantry things outweigh the failsafe?

:100: :tada::confetti_ball::partying_face:

Changing Alu Bed Support for 1/4" MDF or Ply would halve that?

Already ruled out tension spring and/or counter balanced weights? Lead shot, tungsten/blocks are relatively cheap.

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the fail condition of the moving bed is better to me than the fail condition of the moving gantry…and cheaper to fix likely in the worse case

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probably not quite, but maybe knock 3-4lbs off

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Was wondering this about the same time as you too.

idk about half but would lower it a lot. and that would make moving the motors off of the bed have an even higher impact to total weight!!!

I know I pushed hard for the moving gantry, and still really like that option. When I look at it strictly from a fail safe then I have to agree that moving bed is a better plan.

I guess I just need to google this and see what y’all are talking about. I know I have seen these used in a lot of stuff but not sure that’s the same idea…

https://www.amazon.com/KEY-BAK-SUPER48-Retractable-Polycarbonate-Oversized/dp/B002SQ9P5K/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3BSVNKNT3EKJG&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.uOB4CvbqQgxyaJXYSEzdG1uKU2R6sEoiFRiUktZAPlGo_hih3Xunpbg1_z8JnvNmyuY5iZ0nO1YJz7Jaf2gHp1zIr_DK8BAvow-5I9CY_hHhWQrx0uReYP3P7GO8JYS7TKCCmYgZKKgdti943yXthKjWipYl-FiE05-Su0I84ueiNmFqHBv3LSpLA9O7xl0yNBH1bDQYyjjq3EMH3g6x3v6HPnFBitt5LZqQw4CmUJo.aSGwyJhJlE7IEkh_bk_RFNDhG6W6mir76xGZsMsYqh8&dib_tag=se&keywords=keybak&qid=1705371859&sprefix=keyba%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-5

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The biggest reason I put them on the bed is it saved at least 42mm of height. They can easily go up or down but it will cost space and some belt but it will save an idler, screw and nut

Can we put them under a false bottom and put all the electronics under there as well? much cleaner look and for those with enclosed they could have the electronics out of the heated chamber area.

Could even do a fancy skirt all logoed up with some LED underglow lighting!!!

Basically a small tape measure. They make them in all sorts of pull weights. They can go super far and always pull with the same force. So small and compact, you just need to get them according to the weight of your bed, and still have a little gravity come into play.

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So for my current situation I would need 3 in like a 2.5 lbs pull range? Still have some gravity and some head room for when the 2lb glass bed isn’t on it

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I veto that. No extra volume on the regular version. The print chamber has tons of free space if you want an outer chamber it can have an inner box.

Easy enough to add whatever space you want on the bottom, back, or side if you want it, but these guys already kill me space wise in the farm. So I am pretty sure the electronics will be self-contained unless we find something crazy.

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There are some on Amazon or McMaster has a ton if you wanna try it out. I swear someone just added them on their printer.

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I’m not dealing with a farm situation so wasn’t looking at it from that standpoint. I just like the clean look of it all hidden in the bottom.

What are your largest density challenges in your print farm? Height clearly is one. You keep these on wire bread racks, right? Do you get two side-by-side on a shelf? Is there some arrangement that would maximize your utilization in your farm? This is an important consideration for the use case that makes the repeat printer exist in the first place.

I also used to think I wanted the electronics under the bed. Then I decided it’s a difficult access problem.

You probably have a similar consideration that causes you to put the electronics inside the footprint of the frame. Anyone who ever.considers enclosing the printer to print higher temp materials will hate that (including future you if you ever switch to materials that need a sealed/heated enclussure.)

I really like Aza’s lid, too, and for anyone wanting to print with higher temp materials that should at least be a standard option to add.

I’m not sure what the best baseline is, but maybe if you always have panels on the outside of the frame you could have mount points where a user could put something like a DIN rail in, allowing mounting the electronics inside or outside, and maybe left, right, or back.

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False wall, never see it. :rofl:

We can also offer a printed TPU part to act as a bumper if we can not catch the bed in the first couple inches after a power off. Protect against back current for big falls, a printable bumper if you have a heavy bed that might really bash your build if it drops 3 inches or so.

Yeah, 100%. This and a larger print volume are my only current requirements new printer options.

Larger volume
Enclosed for temperature control purposes (passively/actively heated, etc.)
Enclosed for fume control

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Height and width. I tend to have extra depth since it is not a bed slinger.

When the build gets closer we will have a good idea where electronics will fit. And each will have their own preferences I am sure. That should be the easiest decision.

The smaller we make it the more room we have for options, and easier it is to enclose.

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