Some inspiration:
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Since everyone of these are so unique, I think that it will highly depend on your setup.
If it is small, easy, but if you make it 4 foot wide, that is going to be tough.
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Lol, that image is from the roadrunner and the coyote cartoon?
It would work with some foam all over
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I haven’t seen a case, but it’s a good idea. I find that I don’t have a good place to grab it, and the belts dangle and catch on things. I think I have popped off the little levers on the endstop switches like 5 times while carrying the machine.
A simple box would be handy. Maybe a super-short rail inside for it to sit on.
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Do you have to square the machine each time you put it on the table?
You have to square the machine each time you turn it on. It’s quick and automatic.
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Uhh, maybe I missed that step. What am I supposed to be doing? 
I did the initial squaring and z leveling. I home the machine after I turn it on. Is there something else I am supposed to do?
I meant if you take the LR3 off the table, do you have to do the 4 point initial squaring with the marker again.
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Sorry, I didn’t communicate well. I meant that homing squares the machine.
To answer your true question, the adjustment of the endstop blocks on Y and Z to get it square and level shouldn’t need adjustment when removing and re-attaching the machine to the table.
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My idea is because i have already dismantled one of my lr2 machines cuz i got almost a gift (a 5’*10’ openbuilds cnc for less than the cost of the aluminum extrusion, was around 550usd at the exchange including table router and electronics ) and want to rebuild the lr to a lr3 maybe @jamiek idex to be carried in to jobsites and replace manual routing and cutting the acm panels.
Its going to be kind of difficult thing to achieve because this damm country is too hot (but always i can just buy an a/c unit for my box truck)
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Thats the cheaply made cnc
Ohhh god the controller is an Arduino Uno with jumper wires to some old basic tb6600 drivers. At least i have an extra esp32 available to make a new 6pack config and not loose my lr configuration
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Built a smaller multipurpose bench (bar height…) for my LR3 that never needs putting away, is always ready for up to 2’x4’ work when not mounted to the full size 4’ x 9’ sled that is mostly hoisted vertical against the wall.
IF space was even more of a premium, then personally would hope to vertically mount and store somewhere on display like any other piece of art. Would be a shame to box up out of sight, “boxes/drawers are where tools go to die” Adam Savage
Curious if someone’s already made and shared a guitar stand inspired rack/mount to vertically store/display their LR3?
Making a case to bring LR3 to job site, or storing at home out of the way when not in use?
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Im aiming to huild a storage box so i can transport it to job locations, assemble and start cutting panels, take whatever time it needs to do the job then back in the case and be returned to the shop. Already have an easy to move 5*10 bench (just a steel frame with a lot of bolts) some leveling wheels and of course Brakes!
No matter what hassle is to assemble, and the effort to place the lr in and beging cutting its 100% easier than cutting things in the shop and transport them to job sites (transit here is caotic, plus gas prices are to the roof)
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Able/planning to bring your 5x10 steel frame bench to job location, or do you need something smaller, and/or lighter weight for job site work (e.g. Paulk style)? Maybe you have decent portable flat surface already?
Curious to see what setup you end up with. I keep wondering how Contractor/Carpentry friends could benefit from a decent portable setup. They don’t enjoy time/expense/risk of carrying materials between their jobsite and workshop if possible.
The table is made of the light 1.5" steel the table was soldered at square then cutted after adding the bolts. It fits nicely and can be transported with a single travel with a ford 250 ecoline and have lots of room to spare. Also acm panels go on another separate travel usually a truck with all the aluminum for mounting. I usually do all folding grooves and cuts in my shop with a cut list and that adds a lot of costs. Its a lot simpler just to do all the machining on job site the only thing i would need to carry its my laptop and a small portable table and a chair. Also can discount most of the time needed to do all the hand work of cutting and folding all the finishing pieces we do by hand. A lr is very capable even with the expense of buying a new mdf for spoilboard when it gets damaged with transportation (we already have 2 sheets for every work to be used on the benches, we dont use plastic tabletops or sheetmetal tables because of the risks to scratch the painted surface of the material.
We already have an 1.5kwh solar kit mounted on the roof of the van for power, so running the cnc, ventilator, the laptop charger and drill batteries chargers are covered.
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Sounds like a pretty awesome setup. Slightly unrelated but are you folding the ACM? If so, how are you doing that and are there any tips for doing it successfully?
To fold the acm you should use a 90° vbit (the wood working ones yo should grind the tip and make it flat 2-3mm) or just go to an acm vbit that comes already planned by 2-3mm -amana tools bits
Then you just plumg your router and leave the .20-.30 plus almost a whole mm of the plastic core. You will have to measure the sheets you get there and sacrifice some pieces then you should be able to fold it by hand.
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I hadn’t seen that post, that’s exactly what I was wondering, thanks!
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Sure. If you have more questions about that just reply on the other thread.
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I was worried about snagging and breaking the levers too so the second I decided not to use sensorless homing, I removed the levers from all the endstops and flipped them around so they make direct contact with the buttons instead of the levers. They are also more accurate this way since you don’t have to worry about bends in the lever changing the accuracy and they give you a couple mm more travel.
They Y-axis lined right up. The z-axis switches need to come down about 5mm and out about 4mm. Since I don’t have the step files for the z-stop models and my modeling skills are kinda weak, I just made a little piece to screw onto the xz plate to make up the difference. Would be nice if I had the step files so I could just change the z-stop. Then I could use the hole in the xz plate with a small screw to adjust the height of one side to mechanically level it. This is what I am currently using for the z-stop but if all you want to do is fix the y-axis, you don’t need anything. Just rip out the levers, flip the switches around, and make sure the buttons line up with the blocks.
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