Getting started again with lowrider and a few questions to catch up on current state of things

I’ve finally gotten through a bunch of house projects and am in a spot where I can start working on the lowrider again. I want to change out the mini rambo board for something with enough motor drivers to support auto homing and auto-squaring.

  • What firmware are most folks using now? I use klipper on my printer and am pretty happy w/ that. And had previously had the octopi image from here working w/ the lowrider and that was cool. Is it still maintained?
  • What’s the recommended controller to use for all the independent motor control? I did order a Makerbase MKS TinyBee to try wit FluidNC for $35 but could re-purpose that for a printer if it’ll cause probs here.
  • If I want to upgrade to the V3 setup, do I really only need the linear rails? Everything else can be moved from V2, cut, printed, or bought at the HW store?
    Thanks!

Definitely not “Most folks” but Im using RepRap Firmware on a Duet board. I have also tried RepRap Firmware on an SKR Pro. I very much like the interface and wifi connectivity. Pretty sure that most people are using the pre-compiled Marlin though as it’s easiest to find support for.

I know some are using Klipper as well, but I have no experience there.

Any controller with 5 or more motor drivers can do the job for either a Low Rider or Primo. Using one of the controllers listed in the Marlinbuilder Releases page will get a pre-compiled firmware that will get you started with independent control and some handy custom menu items. I only have experience with the basic RAMPS boards and the SKR Pro 1.2 myself, both worked well, but I did end up replacing them with the Duet board myself.

Almost everything is there for the V3 in the V2 kit. Of course there are zero printed parts to cross, but much of the hardware is just fine.

The M8 or 5/16" bolts are mostly longer than you will want for the LR3. There was quite a mix of sizes in the LR2 kit. I bought a box of 5/16"x1.5" bolts for my conversion. I also bought a couple of boxes M5x30 screws and locknuts. I think I bought 150 each, but did not use them all for the LR3. It is a largish number as these take over for almost all of the #6-32 screws that were in olace for the LR2. Fun fact: the captive nut prints for the M5 nuts will fit the #6-32 nuts perfectly, due to the coincidence of 5/16" being so close to 8mm. 30mm is close to the 1.25" length that many of the screws in the LR2 kit are, so it is very possible to use those for many places in the LR3 construction. If you do this, it would be best to note the locations, so that you don’t mix them up doing maintenance. Still there won’t be enough in the LR2 kit to manage it all, as fastening the struts to the beam take a large number of screws.

There will be plenty of 608 bearings in the LR2 kit, the LR3 uses significantly fewer. You can choose to use the 60mm skate wheels, or not. The LR2 leadscrews are longer than you need, and of course you can use all of the same motors and control electronics.

There isn’t much extra to buy to convert. It is a complete re-print of all the plastic pieces, and cutting new flat pieces. I think it does make for a machine that is easier to use.

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LR2 to LR3 hardware differences for updating your build

QTY Description US Equivalent
14 M8 x 40mm 5/16” x 1.5”
94 M5 x 30mm None
94 M5 Nylock None
36 M3 x 10mm None
10 M2.5 x 12mm None
24 3mm x 12mm Wood/metal #4 x ½” Wood or Sheet metal screws
22 M4 x 12mm+ Wood/metal #8 x ½“+ Screws to mount things to your table
4 150mm MGN12H Rails Shop Link
3 Wire Extenders Shop Link

That’s the official list from the manual.

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Very cool. I’ll have to go for the upgrade once I get the flat parts cut out on the current build. Thx for the info @Tokoloshe

@SupraGuy maybe I’ll give klipper a go on the cnc too. I’m seeing some stuff about others using it now too.

The duet boards look really nice, all integrated and well supported. I had looked at those when I was upgrading the printer last year but was a little concerned about klipper compatibility. Ended up using an Archim instead.

The cheap factor on MKS boards is kind of nice… will see there.

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