I have a new spool of black PLA and I just could NOT get it to stick down, and it warped hideously. I put my trusty blue PLA into the printer, and same thing. So I went back to this ancient Hatchbox yellow PLA that has been out unwrapped since 2016… Other than the colour, no complaints…
The .3MF is standing upright, so I re-oriented it for printing. I think it would be fine as-is actually. It shouldn’t need to be particularly strong. I printed 2 perimeters, 30% infill, 0.3333mm layers. It works.with 25 or 30mm M5 screws. I did not include a mount plate. A 1 section strut plate can be milled, or one of the “temporary struts” from the main LR3 repository can be used.
I did set up the mounting screws to be put in at 45° instead of making tabs. With the tabs, I suppose that it could be made to house an SKR Pro for an MP3DP, so maybe I’ll do one with that as an option. I don’t think anyone wants the board hanging out of a printer that far though.
The mount angle was copied from the LR3 brace file. It was an odd angle, so I guess Ryan set that up by dimension rather than picking an angle. I have the mount surface as vertical and the base as horizontal.
Cool. Yours look faster to print, less volume to them, and don’t require the screws to mount the board.
I.thought about a clip like that, but decided that screws would serve me better, and I.wanted to have better access to the mpunting screws, so decided on the 45°angle to get them.
I had a 3:00 AM thought about how this could be better…
Yeah, I am stingy and tried to conserve filament. Yours have got the advantage that they take less space, mine will protrude to the left and right of the case.
Yeah, that might have been easier… I printed it on the long side with supports and was thinking: I am making a mistake, Ryan does not do supports… Then the orientation problem is also gone.
The “lock” does not work, it’s too far out because the lip of the case is not straight down but angled, the little latch does not latch, it’s too loose.
This fits all the previous cases as well. The other ones are not angled and slightly longer. So I can make two versions or just this universal. I kinda figure the wire management should hold it in place as well.
Okay, I hear you but why?
My reasoning was we would rarely actually look at the board itself and this gives some room for wires under it. Saves a bit footprint as well.
It can also screw flat(ish).
I have not printed it yet. I am making some router mount edits. So far I love the feedback.
I put a window in the case, I want to see the endstop lights. You could also just add another pair of holes at the top that is angled. Basically make it symmetrical top/bottom. then you have three ways of fitting it to a table. Was this explained well enough?
Eh. Maybe make a shorter version that holds it tight for the Jackpot? Dunno how much work that’d be.
There is a screw hole int he bottom, so it could be table mounted, and the 2 in the back. It could probably hold the case just fine with just the one part, but was designed to use 2.
The top “tag” there is 6mm wide, which should fit inside the case hook and keep it reasonably secure. The angle copies the LR3 back mount again.
I’ve uploaded this model to Printables, even though I haven’t printed it yet. (The printer is warming up for it now.
Ryan’s (as always) looks fabulous, but I think this is the one I’m going to use.
So the tab at the top is a bit longer than ideal. I’ll need to trim a bit from it, like a half mm or so. Maybe 1mm to be sure, but it seems to fit OK. It’s a bit springy, but seems like it will be fine. I’ll use it for the Duet on the Primo when I cut it down to size.
The angle looks good though, and it prints fast, even 30mm tall. It also prints solid at 2 perimeters.
Yours have got the advantage that they take less space, mine will protrude to the left and right of the case.
You could also just add another pair of holes at the top that is angled. Basically make it symmetrical top/bottom. then you have three ways of fitting it to a table. Was this explained well enough? 
