I have used my lr3 extensively for 2 years, now it is time to upgrade.
I printed all my parts in pla-cf, note that this is not recommended by Ryan and you should probably use normal pla. But since I have a hardened steel nozzle already and pla cf has a higher young’s modules then pla I wanted to give it a shot. The main drawback for pla cf (besides possible health risks) are that it is harder to print since it requires a hardened nozzle, and weaker layer adhesion.
To combat this, I printed at a slightly higher temp then I would for pla to promote layer adhesion. I also used 3 walls with a 0.6mm nozzle and 0.24mm layer height. All parts came out great and I had no failures. The parts feel very solid.
Today I started taking my lr3 apart after cutting the new strut plates, sad to see it cutting its own grave. The new beam has been assembled. Love everything so far about the new design, easy to print and assemble.
I cut the struts from Trespa, which is a trade name for HPL in most of Europe. The HPL in Europe seems different then the US HPL. As someone stated before that HPL is not suitable for the struts since the inside of the sheet is soft compressed paper.
Trespa is rock hard, a lot more solid then MDF. It is completely solid on the inside and has a nice outer surface. It is very ridgid and durable.
It is relatively easy to cut on the cnc. I used a 4mm two flute straight bit at 15mm/s 3mm doc, no problems at all.
For European builders I can definitely recommend giving trespa or other similar HPL a look. In my opinion between mdf and aluminium in performance. However compared to aluminium: Less expensive and easier to machine, with a clean and nice looking surface.
Wear a mask when machining this stuff, it is nasty for ur lungs!
I noticed a tiny bit of play between the m8 bolts and bearings. I measured the bolts and holes of the bearings, there seems to be around 0.2mm of play between them. I assume this is normal and not a problem? Or is this wear from using them on the lr3?
I was wondering about this too. Do your bolts have threads the whole way or is there a smooth section? The ones in the docs show a smooth section. I bought my own since I had a lot of the parts already and mine are threaded the whole way and I see a similar amount of play and was unsure whether I should get partially threaded bolts.
Not sure it’s a problem, but I am upgrading my LR3 to LR4 (all hardware from Ryan) and do not have any play with my bolts and bearings, they roll smoothly but do not shift or wobble at all. So might be worth double checking. I tightened the nuts until there was no play but the bearings spin freely.
Finally had time to finish the build after my exams. Fully assembled and cutting! Only things left to do is to print the dust shoe and fix some connectivity issues I have.
I am very impressed with the improvements over the previous version. It is a lot stiffer then the lr3 and assembling it was also a lot easier. The small details that help during assembly are very cool! Like the filament to keep the nuts in place.
Did some test cuts yesterday. I primarily cut interior grade plywood/multiplex of 18mm. I cut using a 6mm straight flute carbide mill. These leave a very clean result on the top surface. On the lr3 I was cutting at 6mm doc and 12mm/s. This would give me reliable and accurate results.
I did some test cuts on the lr4 same material and bit. 6mm doc at 50mm/s!! Accuracy was top notch, and it felt like it could go even faster. I am very very impressed. Unfortunately no video of these tests in multiplex.
Also did a small project already, a sign in mdf. Cutting at 50mm/s. Results were perfect.
Thank you @vicious1 and the beta team for this machine!
Just keep in mind when you get moving too fast you do start to lose torque. 50mm/s is very fast. Instead of just trying to move faster, I highly recommend increasing the material removal rate by cutting deeper or a larger step over.
I am so pleased to hear the feedback. Super cool to see the new machines come to life.
I am really liking the black on black build, I had not seen one yet. Do you have a full build picture you can share I would love to share it on the shop page or docs.
That is good advice thank you. These kinds of speeds are new to me and I assume a lot of previous lr3 owners Will try 9mm doc and 25mm/s.
I still need to take some pictures. I am happy to send some pictures for you to use I will fully finish my build in the coming few days. I am considering printing Peter plates, do you prefer pictures with or without them?
Normal depth of cut is 1 diameter up to 2 diameters deep. 3 can happen but you risk not getting chips out fast enough. So play around and see what works best for you and your surface finish.
Will try 9mm doc and 25mm/s.
I will fully finish my build in the coming few days. I am considering printing Peter plates, do you prefer pictures with or without them?