Those are the pins I used. You will need a crimper. They don’t crimp with just pliers.
Awesome, Ordered them and a crimping tool.
I think those are just the metal parts, you also need the housing. The housing is the same for the male and female pins.
If you end up making a connection in the middle of the cable, like an extension for a stepper motor or something, since they aren’t captive, you can use some waxed string, and tie a tight knot. I like using waxed string to keep cables organized as well. It has the advantage over regular string, because it doesn’t come loose (with something like a square knot, anyway) and it has the advantage over zip ties in that it’s more flexible, and it won’t cut through insulation. I’m not at my machine, ATM, but here is a grainy picture that I have:
I planned to just recycle the plugs that are on them. It’s pretty easy to get the pin out with out damage. I bought some premade endstop wires with the plugs on them and was able to save the other end that I didn’t need pretty easily.
I thought I would post a print i’m working on. Just so people can see the quailty i’m getting out of this machine. It’s a bit bowed on the flat side but I don’t think there’s much that can be done about that.
PETG,
Those threads came out pretty amazing. Cool looking part as well.
Yeah, I was surprised about that bit. This has been a really great machine. I’m glad a built it rather than buy another premade one.
It’s a spool holder, I’m printing the other half right now and I have 3 rods to print after that’s done. So I might have something to show on in the next day or so.
Here is the link to the file is anyone is interested.
I suggest never buying filiament from orb polymer. So far it’s been a terrible experience dealing with their customers service.
I suggest never buying filiament from orb polymer. So far it’s been a terrible experience dealing with their customers service.
Same experience with orb polymer, almost 6 weeks for three spools of filament. Finally shipped when I threatened to call the credit card company. Zero customer service and responses to emails/calls.
Z
I just sent them another email. Told them I didn’t appreciate their receptionist and that if I didn’t receive a phone call or text by the end of the day tomorrow I would call my bank and have the transaction reversed. It would be one thing if they didn’t advertise one day shipping, but they do and they should stick to it.
But in your case, 6 weeks? I don’t know how you put up with it for so long. Is the filament any good?
Drylin put their igus file up on thingiverse if anyone is interested. I’ve printed two so far, and the one with 1mm clearance worked for me. I got 4 more going on the bed right now. I’ll replace the x axis bearing with them and let you guys know how they work, while it prints replacements for the y axis. They suggest tribo filament they say will work just as long as a cast igus bearing, but it’s 85 dollars for a half pound roll. I guess if you needed a bunch of them it would save money.
Well I got this done today, The bed is a lot more solid now. I think i’ve been able to bump up the printing speed by 20 mm/sec. So it was a nice little plus. I tried 80 mm/sec but it lost steps and ringing was pretty bad, so I lowered it back down to 60. Got 4 more on the bed right now, and so far so good. And the sound of the machine has gone down quite a bit. I have a clicking noise i’m trying to tack down now.
I also took out my springs and used nylon spacers I found at lowes instead. Now I just use the z stop to adjust the bed and use z offset in slic3r to fine tune it. Printing like a champ right now.
Do you have a pic of your spacer setup? Are you just assuming it’s level? You can’t adjust the slope of the bed with slic3r can you?
I’ve been thinking of removing these springs, now that I have the autolevel sensor, but I still want some squish, I think, in case I run over some plastic, or something.
This is what I did. pretty level all around. I notice when I measured from the plate to the bed when I had springs. I pretty much had to have 0.283 inches between the bed and the bed plate. So I got a washer and a spacers and they added up to 0.285 which was good enough.
I am having an issue where one side of my z gantry is falling a bit and during the first layer prime I have to turn it slightly to get it right again. I’m not sure why it’s doing that.
Well, the two motors will move in unison, but as soon as they are off, the two motors move independently. Not sure why one would sag if you’re not touching it.
I got all my filemate in today. I guess my email to orb polymer worked. But they never responded. I called, emailed and even took to their twitter. Not one response from anyone at the company. I’m thinking I should write a letter to the 3d printing nerd. Because I got it based of one of his videos where he gave it a good review.
I think I need a new brass nut for my lead screw. the right side has play in it, I can lift it up slightly, I can’t do that with the left side. Anyone one a good source for quality ones?
On a printer gravity is your friend sloppy nuts are okay.
Gravity powered anti-backlash…eco friendly since forever.
Well I think, it’s causing me issues, like at the start of a print. I have to adjust one to get a nice line all the way around, and I noticed that it seems to drag in the 50 or so layers up. So maybe it’s the other one is too tight?
Make sure your bed is fairly close to level with the top of the z motor mounts, equal height on each side. if you are super skewed you can bind the z leadnuts. In turn this should lead you to your xz axis also being equal distance from the z motor mounts on both sides, smooth sailing.
If that doesn’t do it make sure your vertical rods are perpendicular to the bed, they should be really close no matter what.
If you started with a tilted bed your level sensor will auto level the print but you can be running with a skewed zx assembly. The printer has to be fairly square and perpendicular in all directions.