Hi everyone. Having a blast making my LR3. Kinda having challenges as kinda new to CnC. After printing the parts and trying to put em together, i really find those parts are all masterpiece crafted. Finished my rails and making my full foldable table now.
I need help with a few last steps to finalize the build, total newbie here with basics of 3d printing so any advice is greatly appreciated:
I tried finding the router in my country, and all online stores sells only ‘trimmer’, that resembles the Dewalt / Makita router as recommended. The thing they call ‘router’ here in my country (Indonesia) is somewhat bulky and not mountable I guess on the LR3, so i opted for a spindle with 12,000 rpm and about 300-500 watts at 48v.
I have no prior experience with spindles, much in 3d printer extruder though, there are the last few challenges i face:
Firstly, is there are spindle mounts design that may fit into LR3? Mine is 50mm diameter. Rather than trying to make it myself, if there is any that suits the nicely transformer shaped x gantry for LR3 will be really appreciated.
How do you usually connect a spindle to SKR 1.2? Will it just be normally separated with 48v psu and rpm control, or will it be better to connect thru the SKR 1.2 directly and how do it do that? Been trying to find any guides but kinda hard to find compared to 3d printing guides.
I’m considering adding laser later on to try cut acrylics, if there is a good youtube guide for newbies like me please share.
Thanks in advance if anyone can help me on these last steps. I cant wait to start trying it out.
Jamie might have to correct me on this (I’m adding to my reply from a another thread)
Explanation to @hug3tz the bosch router referred to is (I think) another “trim router” but Bosch have a slightly shorter circular section than many. It’s just another kind of “trim” router - description is as follows:
The Bosch Blue GMR 1 is a powerful palm router delivering up to 550W of rated output power. This tool is suitable for a variety of applications including rounding off deck planks and railings, hinge mortising, decorative working on edges, groove cutting, dovetail cutting, window cutouts, decorative inlays & flush trimming.
My plan was to have a generic “blank” from which I could just subtract the tool shape (even an irregular tool) and presto I would have a mount for an arbitrary tool, provided I had a good enough 3D model of the tool.
Given this subtract-the-tool approach, it’s simple to make a mount for a 50mm cylinder. Although now that I say that out loud, I need to check if it will actually clamp the cylinder or if it will simply fit but not grasp it.
Well yeah im kinda new so didnt wanna take chance. Should have asked first. Im my country trimmer is called trimmer router, and router are huge ones.
I just wonder for these devices, router vs spindles. Like my trimmer router goes for 35k rpm at 500 watts, while spindles only 12krpm at 500 watts and i saw some spindles up to 2k watt only capable of 35k rpm as compared to router for 500watt at similar rpm.
So since kinda new and i aim to probably at best, carve harder things like aluminium, i wonder whats a decent solution to it, spindle vs router, as most cnc machine goes for spindles so i did purchase both.
35k and 500W is close to the spec of the dewalt 660. Trim Router is what I would call any of them. The cheapest spindles from China are hit and miss. They often cheap out on the bearings and have a lot of runout. The trim routers have a lot of power for the price and they come warranted by a local store.
Thanks for the clarification. I guess i’m going to try them both then and install different tool head. Anyway i saw in the forum that klipper was discussed. What happened to that?
On my last phas, aside from installing spindle / trimmer, my dilemma is whether to use Marlin/Klipper.
I’m asking because i started 3d printing during klipper and kind of unfamiliar with Marlin. Few reasons i’m considering that:
I have 2 printers hooked to one Pi 3b and running very well, and thinking of trying it out on this. If doesnt work out then will simply install marlin.
It saves me $50 ish for the touchscreen. I ended dumping all my touchscreens on my old printers.
It’s much easier to change firmware setting for me when using klipper, and i do not have to use USB to transfer files.
Well thats my thoughts, if anyone has experience setting up klipper for MPCNC or LR, please share why that may be bad idea.
The only thing i see may be a problem is probably setting zero for all axis for klipper, after homing. I’m unfamiliar with Marlin, what gcode is used to zero axis in Marlin and trying to see if i can do that in klipper.
