Me too for Inland, it’s pretty much all I use anymore. I’m cheap, and have two microcenter’s about 2 hours away from me. I drive past one for work a couple times a month, so no brainer for me.
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Inland is looking good so far, comes out to just over $16 per roll shipped. Some of the emails I sent are starting to come back. We will see how the other company’s feel about it. I am willing to put a little more out for a more recognized brand I suppose.
This might be the best time to move to a different formula, like Raptor or something. It is just so hard to experiment and run tests when switching. Dimensions have to be good as well as rigidity.
I’ve had good results and lots of colors from Ziro on Amazon. I probably have 20 partial rolls around.
Formerly a fan of Hatchbox, I’ve been very happy with Sunlu PLA from Amazon. I’ve gone through 4-5 rolls now and it prints beautifully on my Prusa I3 MK2S.
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I’ve only used eSun, and have been really happy with it. I could be in the dark, but it’s the cheapest I can get for around $30NZD per kg.
I know the local fab lab buys exotic expensive filament and their prints do seem a little…nicer, but eh. $30 vs $70.
Atomic Filament. Its what I printed my MPCNC in. Love their stuff. Also made in the US. He should be at MRRF as well. He moved last year and shares the new warehouse with SeeMeCNC. He also sells some massive spools. Give him a shot. I dont think you will regret it.
I emailed them, fingers crossed. If not I will harass them at MRRF.
Cool. I hear their Exreme Jet Black is amazing. I havent tried it yet personally. Really like their Gun Metal Grey and the PETG I tried printed well.
If you look at my build thread you can see the grey, aqua silk, and clear PLA. The PETG I got is Orange.
Another Inland fan here. I’ve used their stuff pretty much exclusively since building the printer.
I had a coworker recommend a different brand off of Amazon, BamTACK. I get my first roll in on Wednesday, so not sure how it prints yet. Will let you know.
Anyone familiar with this brand?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F263165427054
I usually just use the cheapest of the cheapest filament. less than 6 usd per kilo.
Works perfectly fine, I never had any problem with it. I think I’ve used about 15-20 reels by now.
I got 2 3 packs of white and black from TOTALPACK on Amazon, $40.99 for a 3 pack, prints great, print similarly to inland for me. Going with MakerGeeks for my next batch because they ship free to me, so the cost is about the same, but I can get PETG for the same price as PLA.
Hey Dui do they have an English site. I couldn’t tell if they ship to america. Or reg. an account. would like to know shipping fees???
Gary
They are having a 30% off sale. I really like the raptor PLA. I’ve gone through this kg of red, and I really just want more. At 30% off, it’s less than $25/kg.
I’ve gone though a lot of MakerGeeks PLA and PETG. I liked their PETG…but their PLA…I’m not a huge fan of. I got a lot of it because I subscribed to their box for 6 months and their grab bags a great deal (since I’m not picky about color) but overall it’s just too inconsistent and finicky.
The higher temps don’t worry me since I have an all metal nozzle, but it still seems wrong to print PLA that high. And I’ve had more issues with their PLA and my all metal nozzle than I did with it and my PTFE lined nozzle. I’ve had to add a pre-oiler (just a bit of paper towel with a few drops of vegetable oil wrapped around the filament and held with a tiny clothespin) or it randomly gets stuck in the throat. Drove me crazy for the first two spools until I tried the oiler. It would act like the nozzle was clogged - but there was no clog - nozzle was empty. It was just clogging higher up.
I do have one roll of raptor (in a really lame color) and it seems a bit better - but I’ve experienced more warping with it than I have with any other PLA even on the same prints and have a harder time getting dimensionally consistent parts with it.
Their PETG I like - 90% of my MPCNC is printed in it.
I really liked hatchbox PLA - but stock is unreliable and one time I was sent an old roll of esun instead which was hands down the worst filament I ever tried (printed half the parts for my MPCNC in it originally and every one of them failed - some while just sitting there not yet installed they’d suddenly crack right through multiple layers!)
I just ordered some of the inland because of how cheap it was. I wanted to try their nylon (I love the taulman 910 but man is it expensive!) and figured I’d try some of the PLA while I was at it. I’ve heard a lot of good things about inland but have been hesitant to try it due to my very poor experience with that roll of esun and having heard that esun makes the inland stuff. I haven’t opened it yet (just came Saturday) so we’ll see how I like it soon.
I’ve had a few rolls of Atomic and loved every one of them. Stuck to my bed like nothing else with no warping, but popped right off when cool. Very consistent and some of the nicest parts I’ve printed. If it wasn’t for the price I’d use it for everything. (I like their PETG too, my first roll of PETG was a roll of their “B quality” and I still have one roller on my MPCNC that was printed in it.) The owner of Atomic is fairly friendly and helpful too, he used to hang out in the folgertech IRC channel and gave me some great advice when I first got my printer.
I have been through about 30 rolls of inland PLA now. I print it at 213, I think it might be a degree or two to high , hard to say. I actually really like it but it is matte finish on the blue and silver I have, the black is not. When you have a really nice print it looks manufactured, kinda cool. It does seem more rigid, good for us.
I talked to the US distributor on the phone and he seemed to get a little pissed when I mention esun, he said they have no affiliation…good to know.
The only parts I think really should not be PETG are the XYZ parts, but I might just revamp them a bit to fix that (or a whole new gantry…). I think since PET turned into PETG the dims might be a little better but still to flexible for the current XYZ parts.
Does anyone else hate that temps are determined in the slicer? Once I get my temps set for a particular printer and filament, I don’t change them for different designs that I’m printing. I usually don’t even have to change it for the color. Putting it in the firmware is a little too “rough”.
I have offsets set in octoprint (I’m happy they added that), but I keep forgetting to set them when I reboot the octopi.
Seems like I should just set 230/30 in octoprint, and any gcode that asks for a hotend temp would be replaced by 230 and anything that asked for a heated bed, would get replaced with 30. Same thing if I was using Pronterface or Repetier Host to run my prints.
I guess for the SD, you’d have some trouble…
Yup…took me two days to re-slice all the MPCNC files, still haven’t done the other kits. I wanted to make a few changes or I would have search and replaced them.
I need to look through Marlin. I vaguely remember having some temperature presets in the EEPROM. Maybe there’s a gcode command that can just preheat to a preset, and I can change the temps in the EEPROM when I change filaments.
I noticed that same thing with makergeeks. If you print at a lower temp (220) it comes out a matte finish. Parts seem just as strong. And i like the look a lot better…