I am pretty sure I have the steppers on a 6 minute hold window after a file is done. you can unlock them with the lcd or reptier if you need it sooner.
Did you run the set screws all the way through as I mentioned? Are you setting one on the flat spot and then the other? The pulleys should not actually want to come off the shaft, they shouldn’t be at an angle.
The tension looks fine, too tight and it can stall the steppers, too loose and you get sloppy prints.
Well now that you have a proper pen mount and the machine is mounted to the table maybe go back to drawing the test file logo?
The test prints looks significantly better. I think I know how to get them looking a little better but maybe you should do a drawing first to eliminate the pull of the filament as an issue.
I am sure this has been frustrating but those last prints prove things have come a looooong way.
Thx Ryan, will try, but just curious what is the height of the test part supposed to be, remember back when ringing was my only problem? Well I compared the parts, before is on the left, after is on the right, the newer ones are coming out taller.
Okay you still have some issues if that is the newest part.
Did you take off the second nut? There is too much heat there, so I am guessing it still on there. I would also tighten the tension screw on the extruder lever 2-3 turns.
Breakthrough! Ok all, I think we are almost there, messed with the slicer settings out of desperation and and adjusted acceleration on LCD, printed out pen mount again because the other one was horrible, started this when you told me to draw picture. But look below, new one is on right one from 1-2 days ago on left. But it did take 1 hr 30 min…
The acceleration is set in the firmware. You really should not change those setting until you truly understand them, as there are 3 motion settings and they are all interconnected.
But looks like you have a good print, Wished I could have gotten you there sooner. Now have fun.
It’s ok, it took a while, but I’ve learned so much about wiring, settings, etc. But now I have a few basic questions:
How can I make it go auto home from the LCD so when I turn it off I do not have to manually level it?
Can I change the acceleration from 400 to 100 on Slic3r or somehow save it from the LCD so I don’t have to set it every print?
Is there any way to plug the stepper cables into the Rambo firmly, they seem loose and before they used to work there way out by themselves.
After this I plan on using the machine for carving, is the dwp611 worth it?
Other that I am now pretty happy with this machine, thanks Ryan for your prompt and in depth answers, and to everyone else who contributed. Next up might be a machine with a similar nozzle setup to Dui’s.
1-No “home” without endstops. “Home” is digital for move until you hit and endstop. If you finish a print, and do not power off and do not touch the nozzle when you start the next print it will move back all by itself. If you power off you will need to rezero it by hand, nothing to do with level.
2-No it is in the firmware. There are accelerations on all 4 axis.
3-They should not be, mine are extremely tight. If your are different, you can pull off the plastic around the pins.
4-No see the FAQ
Standard acceleration on a 3D printer is 3000, we use it at 400 because we are usually dragging around a 5lb router through a dense material not just an extruder squirting plastic, if you had to go down to 100 that means you have a very unstable build.
It has been 5 pages to get you to this point. Please take some time and use what you have, learn it a bit better. Jumping into advanced builds is not the best idea for you at this point. If you wanted to mill you should have started there is it so much easier than printing with your machine the height it is you would have a good experience milling. But you have a working printer, print a bunch of stuff before you do anything else.
