Can one expand the work area of the MPCNC by using longer rods. If so, how much can it be expanded and still remain accurate.
I also have a 300mm x 300mm 3D printer I can use for this project. I don’t want to print parts, even though I do have a second printer that works great. Can I use the Nema motors or are they supplied with your build kit.
Thank
Mark
Welcome. You can absolutely make it larger. I’ve seen 2x3, I have a 2x4, and I’ve even seen a 4x8 burley.
Basically, EVERYTHING is more challenging at larger sizes. Tools sag, tubes flex etc. The mechanics are all the same, so in theory the accuracy shouldn’t change. If you’re patient, you can dial in the accuracy around these things with your cam, but it may not be worth the effort in the end.
What are you thinking about cutting with it? Have you already considered the lowrider?
Tony is right. You can build the MPCNC at whatever size you want, but you pay an accuracy penalty for larger sizes. What constitutes “larger” in part depends on the materials you use. You will have more flex and therefore accuracy issues if you build the version using electrical conduit vs. building using DOM or stainless steel tubing. And you can mitigate some of accuracy issues by using mid-span supports on the tubing. At some build size, Ryan’s other machine (LowRider) becomes the better choice to build.
I don’t want to print parts, even though I do have a second printer that works great.
If you don’t want to 3D print parts, then Ryan provides packages of 3D printed parts in his store. You need to pick the parts that match the tubing you want to use, and obviously these parts are a separate purchase from the kit.
Can I use the Nema motors or are they supplied with your build kit.
The kit includes the Nema 17 steppers, but Ryan provides a full list of parts as well. Often people source their own parts rather than buying the kit…especially if they are in a country that has a high duty for imported goods.
I appreciate all the feedeback. I have looked at the Lowrider but have a few issues undersigning the basic setup. How does the gantry stop its side to side movement. Is there metal placed on sides of table?
As far as MPCNC I can always upgrade the pipe and put in braces. I am just wondering which one would be more accurate for 3 x 7 cutting area.
Thanks
I can always upgrade the pipe and put in braces.
Conduit is 23.5 mm OD. The other tubing choices is 25.4mm OD. That means if you upgrade from conduit to tubing, you will need to either reprint or purchase new 3D printed parts.
3 x 7 cutting area.
For this size cutting area, all the advice on the forum is that the LowRider is a better choice. Since I’ve never built one, I don’t know the specifics of how the tracks, but by all accounts it is a successful machine. Just take a look at the projects gallery for the LowRider. If someone that owns a LowRider does not comment on this topic, I suggest you post a new topic with LowerRider specific questions.
Note that recently someone on the forum was in the process of building a 4 x 8 MPCNC, and before the LowRider, larger MPCNCs were created, so an MPCNC of this size can be done.
what is the difference between the LowRider, which I like, and the M2 maker that’s hangs from chains?
The 7’ length (or 8’ if you have a 7’ work area) part of the gantry won’t be supported. This will be a real mess. It may be possible, but unless you’re planning in doing only really easy stuff (through cuts in thin plywood, foam cuts), you’re going to hate it.
There are motors on either end driving along the belts in lock step. If it starts square, it will stay straight. That said, some people (including myself) have added small tacks inside the wheels so the wheels are forced to track straight. The LR really is a better machine at sizes bigger than about 3’x3’. It is close to a tie above 2’x2’.
The maslow is not as accurate as the LR and can only do through cuts on sheet goods.
The maslow is accurate in the center, the farther out on the edges it gets, the less accurate it gets. Like Jeff said, it only does through cuts. The weight of the machine on the wheels keep it from sliding side to side. Just like the wheels keep skaters from sliding sideways when they turn.
This helps me make my decisions for the LowRider. I guess it need to order the complete kit.
I appreciate the explanation for the side to side movement but I still can’t see it in my head. I saw one machine with a groves rail that the wheels tracked in but this has none of that. It seems like there would be free floating if it were left up to non guided wheels to keep it straight.
I am missing something - lol
Once you build it, you’ll see how it works. Mine doesn’t have tracks, but I have the Z pipes really close to the side of the table. If it were to slide, it can only move by maybe an 8th of an inch total, less that that either way since I have them split the difference. As long as the table and wheels are kept clean, there’s enough friction to keep it from sliding side to side under normal routing loads.
Also, if you want to route in some channels, go ahead. I would just plan ahead so they are straight and square (probably by making sure the edges are as square as possible.
I highly recommend this. I’m currently printing my own parts since last week. I’m just over halfway done.
Edit: in case you’re curious, i have Ender 3 V2.
How do you like the sender 3D? I ended up purchasing the Tronxy 330x330x400 pro with the Titan extruder.
I am waiting for it to arrive so I can set it up and start printing my parts. I will let you know how it goes.
I have de used to go with the 4 tube gantry. I have the files for the flat pieces and the 3D pieces. The most expensive thing will be the SS tubes - about $299 Plus shipping. I am going to use steel end plates and think aluminum z plates to keep weight down on gantry as I am going with a 5 x 9 table.
And also NEMA 23 steppers
Please let me know if you think I am on right track and point out anything I might be making a mistake one.
Note to above. I have decided to go with lowrider2
Are you using your own custom printed parts?
I have someone who might be able to cut the flat parts from steel of the side plates and aluminum for the z plates spindle holder.
I am going to print my own parts. I have the updated files for the four tube gantry design from username adapt_it_to
Again, any and all suggestions welcome.
Thanks
Mark