Just curious if anyone knows what size female spade connectors the LR3 uses. I am running through an issue with one of my end stops and I am trying to rule out if its a broken wire, bad connector, or bad dupont connector. I was going to get some spade connectors from a local store if I can figure out the size
I’m not sure on the size but if you have the ability it’s always best to solder and heat shrink those. Every time I’ve used the spade connectors it’s come back to bite me eventually
The cables come with a Dupont connector on all the wires.
The SKR board(if that is what you’re using) uses JST-XH connectors on the board side.
Spade connectors are The standard that is used for audio and small boat wiring - not sure the name, but fairly common. (I just measured - 6mm wide or 1/4" if I did the math correctly)
So i was looking at these but I am not sure if they have the right size:
I can’t say for sure, but I believe it would be the Red ones in that pack.
Short answer is no, and I wouldn’t trust that style of crimp anyway.
Long answer:
Those red ones are probably fine for the larger size microswitch, but I think all the ones used here will be the smaller size that needs smaller terminals.
Usually the quick connect terminals (spade terminals, fastons, etc.) are sized by width and thickness. The ‘standard’ size is 1/4" / 6.35mm wide by 0.032" / 0.8mm thick. That’s what will be in that kit.
That would be fine for something like this:
The ones on the smaller microswitches like this will be 0.11" / 2.8mm wide by 0.020"/0.5mm thick, I believe. The smaller ones get tricky because there are a couple of common thicknesses.
I’d second the suggestion to solder and heat-shrink the wires, personally. Care does need to be taken a bit here because they switch may not be intended to be soldered to and the terminal supports the switch contacts. If the terminal overheats and moves then the switch may not work correctly or become unreliable with time. Best approach is to use a decent temperature controlled soldering iron, ‘tin’ the terminals and wires separately first, let both cool for a minute, hold the two soldered parts together and then touch them with the iron just long enough to ensure the solder has fully flowed. You’re then looking for the wire to be entirely smoothly encased in solder, ideally without any obvious cracks or sharp transitions where it looks like the solder may not have wetted to one of the parts. If it doesn’t look good, letting it cool again and then adding some more solder (while using a 3rd hand to hold the wire in place, perhaps) can help a lot.
In theory, properly crimped and fitted quick connects combined with cable ties to keep the wiring from moving should be much more reliable than soldering and heat-shrink. You’d never see a wire directly soldered to something in a proper product intended for a high vibration environment, but you’d also never see those simpler ‘crush’ style crimps, it would always be something like this:
Along with the correct tooling.