These just came off the printer last night. They mount inside the bottom of a Z tube so you have easy access to them for adjustment. There’s a wedge that gets pulled down into the stop to clamp it from inside the tube. There will be a machine screw that runs through the narrow end of the stop and the end of that screw will hit the endstop switch. Switches are yet to be mounted.
Sweet little wedge! That could come in handy for a few things.
And this shot is from my Fusion 360 model showing the end stop installed with the machine screws. I’ll mount the switch on the Y plate so it does not move. This is duplicated on the other side as well adn will give me auto squaring on the Z.
I’ll also wire endstops on both sides of the gantry on the Y plates that will hit fixed stops with machine screw adjustments on the sides of the table to activate the Y axis stops.
There’s one more that will mount on the inner Y plate on the controller side of the machine to allow the X axis to bump it.
I didn’t cut those poppers precisely. But I should be able to adjust them with m666. Plus, what’s 2mm over 60"? That should work well.
Well I have to report back that those config changes worked PERFECTLY ! I have a lowrider that auto squares the long axis (I’m calling it X because when I stand on the long side of the machine where the controller is, my mind tells me X runs left to right) and the z axis. The auto home all axis on Pronterface runs the Z to the top, the x axis to the left end, and the Y axis all the way towards me. (that’s with me standing on the long side of the machine with the controller right in front of me)
Printing the final X endstop adjustment screw stops right now, then I will be posting pics of where and how I mounted everything. I have screw adjustable X and Z with a fixed Y stop.
So cool. I bet it is a trip to watch a LowRider auto home/square!
Any chance you can share those stl’s?
Software guy here, suggesting that you can use M666 to adjust each endstop instead of the mechanical solution of the screws.
If you set it up right, and one endstop is 1mm behind square of the other (for example) then you should be able to set that with M666, and it will stretch to bump the endstop, and the retract 1mm away from that farther endstop. FWIW.
But, this is awesome. I would love to see a video, if you don’t mind me asking 
. Something about the low rider homing into square just sounds awesome.
Here’s a link to the STL files for the stops. I did not include the standoffs that I made for the mounting the X and Z switches. Those are dependent on what switches you are using.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2708235
Heh, you must have designed them in inches.
Yeah, sorry but that’s how I roll. I can export a metric set if you need.
And here’s a video showing the Z axis with dual endstops…
Dude, Greg, you just absolutely made my day. Thank you for taking the time to make the video, and the endstop brackets. I have to link this in the article. Dam, so cool, I haven’t gotten to try it out yet myself!
Naa, just throw a note on thingiverse that if their slicer is set for mm, that they need to scale up 2540%
That’s awesome. Thanks. That is a great build, and the video shows so much detail. Just seeing it climb into shape is so great.
Hello!
I’m from Russia and use Google for translation, I apologize in advance.
I make a CNC with a milling cutter on a table with a size of 2000 to 3000, on each axis there will be two motors, very much skewed along the axes, so there is an idea to start work after each motor is leveled by endstops.
Hence the question: is it possible to add dual endstops to the firmware on the X and Y axes?
I really hope for help, thank you in advance.
Sorry for the trouble, badly looking …
https://www.v1engineering.com/auto-square-dual-endstops/
I’ll be there
@Adam, Just so you know, this is the “advanced” way to do that. The basic way is to use a square, and force the axes to be square before enabling the steppers. Many users have gotten a lot of work done with the manual procedure. This dual endstop feature is not a requirement for most CNC work.
The dual endstops are, however, very cool, and will make things easier.
The manual method is very well proven. If you run into trouble with the firmware, don’t sweat it, and just use the manual method.
I hope that translates well through google. 
Thank you @Jeffeb3. Already asked the controller and on the table like everything is working as it should, now I will hang on the frame and debug. I’m just afraid that with such a pipe size in the process of work, the skew of the square is possible which is now perfectly displayed, therefore decided to insure and go this way.
Went ahead and worked out the M666 commands to square up the X and Z axis’ and it worked perfect. Did this after putting on a guiderail on both long sides to help keep the gantry from shifting under cutting load. I didn’t want the side assemblies rubbing on the sides of the table and creating drag, so the wheels now ride in this channel…it’s wall standard for adjustable shelving. 1/2" tall and 1/2" wide and keeps the wheels up out of the sawdust.
Interesting. I really feel like I need to revisit the LowRider soon. I think I might have gotten the some of the physics reversed and could make it better. I love using it and each time I do I have a new idea. All of you guys keep trying new things as well so I think we can all push it further.
