According to Anderson Plywood,
MDO is produced with a high-quality thermosetting resin-impregnated fiber surface bonded to one or both sides under heat and pressure to create an exterior-grade plywood panel.
If I recall my New Yankee Workshop, Norm described it basically as having kraft paper bonded to the surface(s). He used it a lot where a painted surface would be adequate.
I really like Baltic birch but real Baltic birch is metric so your thicknesses will be 6mm/12mm/18mm etc… you need to adjust accordingly. It’s such good quality I wouldn’t be surprised if it handled arcade cabinet T moulding. Plus like you mentioned you can only get them in 5x5 sheets at least around here.
Yea that’s another reason I think they manufactured arcade cabs with MDF sides. For the T-Molding. Plywood, isn’t good for it. And will tear all to hell and back. It will look like Barry’s wood in his album. I have some original cabs left, and I have to say, 99% of them are MDF sides, and plywood bottoms, tops, and backs. My Ms Pac-man is that weird looking waferboard (as I call it) on the sides. Everything else is ply.
MDO is nice, but I’ve not tried milling it yet. I thought about building my lowrider table out of the stuff.
I’ve heard of something called ‘Ply-Core’ It’s basically MDF on the outside, and plywood on the inside. Or maybe that’s the other way around. But it looks like MDF until you cut into it, and see the layers. Easy to finish, light as ply.
I’m at my shop cutting the cabinet grade plywood I just got back from HD with, and everything is going smoothly. Fresh bit in it, she’s cutting nicely.
Been a minute since I updated this thread. Work is still going on, it’s just moving a bit slower than before. Thanks Covid-19!
So here we go. Since the last time I posted photos and build-up of my MDF Prototype cab, I’ve actually cut the production cab. Plywood bottom, Top, Back, Back Door, and Scoreboard panel. The only MDF pieces are the front, sides, and lower marquee. Just like the original.
Shameless Plug: If you’re wanting to add a CNC to your arsenal, and you find this page. You see a Lowrider v2, and oh man it’s got Roller Blade wheels, and alot of plastic. DO NOT LET THAT PUT YOU OFF! Build the damn thing already, 'cause it’s an amazing piece of machinery. This cab is proof. 
Ok So here is what I’ve gotten done since my last post.
All the parts are cut, tho not visible in the photos because I opted to leave them off since I gotta paint them. I hate painting.
Is the lowrider v2 accurate you ask? Yes it is. Look at that back door. Sitting in there perfectly.
GAH did I mention I hate painting? 1st coat of primer laid down. I think I’m going to talk the wife into a HVLP sprayer for my birthday since it’s right around the corner. sigh
Get one that can do unthinned latex. They work better, though it will give you a slight orange peel texture unless you thin it.
Do you have a recommendation? I was looking at that $100 turbine one at Harbor Freight, because of the good reviews. But if you know one that’s better, I’d grab it instead.
This is the one I have now. I’ve painted all the trim in my wife’s old office with it, and my dad had done a pretty good amount of his garage with it.
I will grab that one! Thank you for that! How does it do for oil based? I usually paint my cabs with Rustoleum Semi-Gloss or Satin. I wouldn’t dare try to shoot the Kilz tho, because it’s super thick.
I don’t spray oil. The kilz I use is in a rattle can, or I brush it on.
Gotcha. I rolled the Kilz on today, was the quickest way to get it done. I did think about rattle cans, but it would take quite a few I think. I’m gonna grab that sprayer off of amazon since it’s not in stock at my local lowe’s or home depot, and I might switch to latex because I gotta do another one of these, plus a Ms Pac-man. Spraying sure would make my life easier.
Like I said, it will orange peel a bit, but that might be alright for a game cabinet. Makes it a bit more scuff resistent.
Sweet thanks for that info! I do wet sand with 2000 grit in the end to get rid of roller marks, so I could always do that still if the orange peel is really heavy.
That’s waaaaaay too much work! 
HAHA You’re telling me! I probably wouldn’t do a customer’s cab like that, but these are personal cabs, so… Gotta look good so the wife will let me bring them home again haha
Try some of this in your paint:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Flood-Floetrol-1-qt-Clear-Latex-Paint-Additive-FLD6-04/100198078
I use a sprayer on my air compressor. I started adding this stuff to the paint when I spray and it made the paint flow SO much better. Lays down perfect. I could even thin kiltz enough to spray through my sprayer.
I’ve heard of that stuff! Read about it on an arcade restoration forum, they swear by it over there. I’ll have to check it out. I think they even make it in a version for oil based too.
When you used it in Kilz, was it the latex Kilz?
+1 floetrol – this stuff is amazing even for brushing on paint. I learned about this stuff from a paint crew that we had at our house several years ago. Hi Gloss finishes are really easy with Floetrol
I used the latex kiltz.
