Do i need to scale the parts in the slicer by 0.5% or 1% to compensate for any shrinkage of the PLA+ material? Or has that already been taken care of in the files?
I usually print at 0.5mm line width to make parts stronger and print faster. SHould i do that on this or not really?
thanks
Print a test part or two, scaling the parts is not recommended.
are there any working drawings or anything that at least show the dimensions of the holes on the feet? this way i can print a part and compare it to the proper dims
thanks
Usually the recommendation in this circumstances is to follow the proper calibration steps for your printer, as skew, racking, over/under extrusion and even poorly calibrated e-steps will make for misery if you don’t have a machine and slicer combination that produces mechanically correct parts.
Follow along through these. It’s a bit of a journey, but when you complete it your machine (and you) will be entirely more capable of repeatable, functional, correct parts.
For each type/brand of pla pla+ etc you should perform a flow test, a pressure advance test (#1 and #2 from orca slicer) and a pressure advance tower just to confirm, also a temperature tower. Write down or save a profile and you are set.
PLA+ is not recommended also. Better to use just standard PLA. The + has added things in it that effect the rigidity some.
I just stated: he should perform the test with each brand of filament regardless it is pla, pla+, petg etc. every filament change he should have a profile for it.
Correct, i do calibrate each time i use a different filament, tram the bed, or change any hardware : )
I still need something to compare my printed part too. Ie, the hole size for the foot. Printing circles, curves and lofted objects behave different than towers and cubes, especially as they get larger in size. I have noticed this when i have done my own calibration tests. I once printed a cube of 25mm, 35mm, 55mm, and 125mm. Calibration was good for the 25 and 35, but as size got bigger, the accuracy was bad. So i calibrated to the 125mm cube and every size below that was spot on. It was crazy 
Are there any dimensions available for at least the foot?
Thanks for all the information all 
The emt that goes in it should be good to compare to. It should fit snug but still be able to slide in without beating it with a hammer or it just falling off
You should be able to bring the 3mf files into a CAD program like Fusion or possibly even your slicer and take measurements where needed to compare.
There are no CAD files or drawings publicly available
Oh wow, i had no idea prusa slicer did that. This is the same slicer i use.
I do not have fusion, but i do have access to it at school, just not at school today. Thank you for showing me this.
I will compare my prints when im off the train
Tinkercad will export a .SVG file dimensioned in mm for a part along the origin plane.
Import the .STL into Tinkercad, put it on the plane and export a .SVG. print that on paper, with a printer that gets true drawing size (Tinkercad will give you the width and length of the part to .01mm, so you can check the paper dimensions.)
Now print the part and check against the paper and it will tell you how good your 3D print is compared to the source file.
Printed in PLA, I did nkt scale any of my LR3 parts in the slicer, FWIW.
Ok, cool. I will use my calipers and check against the dimensions. The only parts i have scaled are the feet and that was by 0.5%. i will check it all out when im home
I had no need to scale any parts printing in regular PLA and ABS when I did my printing with a .4mm nozzle and .24 layer height. Any shrinkage I experienced didn’t have much effect on the fasteners - I was either able to get them cleanly through the holes or just get a little tiny bite to them that didn’t have any impact on the parts.
I did take the time to print the basic frame test as specified here - as long as your printer is square, you’ll hopefully be OK.
I have been printing at 4 walls and 25% infil since the onl8ne document only says 2 parameters and 45% infill. Based on tests i have read and done, 4 walls and 25% infill is alot stronger than 3 walls and 45%
We will find out haha
