I recently (3 weeks ago) purchased the lowrider v3 with the SKR PRO LCD combo. Once I was up and running I noticed the G38.2 command was being skipped and I thought it was me. After hours of reading up on marlin and the forums I found out I had the wrong firmware installed (some bug crunch night build) right from V1. Figuring out how to re-flash I installed the right firmware and everything was working fine. I started up a cut today (first 2.5D) and left the machine to do it’s thing came back to check on it (30 mins) and it stopped for no reason, looked at the display and it was off (no button light, no display). Cracked open the case and I had the power leds but nothing else. Shut off everything and grabbed my laptop plugged in the USB and powered up. Using repeater host I was able to control but nothing on the display. The button does still work for the M00 command but nothing else.
Does the controller or the LCD have a fuse? I did notice that the display would begin to get hot and I would loose half the screen after hours of it being on but that was when I had the wrong firmware and have not used it enough to know if that was still the case. Do I have a faulty display? How can I check?
Check that all of the wires are still secure. Ghere are 3 vables, 2 gray ones, and a black one. The black one is for touch mode, the 2 gray ones for Marlin mode.
If you are using the button for M0 pause resume, probably ysing Marlin mode (good) which is more solidly tested.
If you are using longer cables, they can be prone to interference. You probably also should keep them away from power wires.
I don’t want to start another thread about safety. But you shouldn’t leave your machine alone. There have been fires and these are more dangerous than 3D printers (IMO). The 600W spindle has no feedback when it starts rubbing the collet or buries the bit. It is just 100% on. Everything around it is flammable. It is seriously dangerous. You have to own your own safety and risk. But I have to mention it when I see it.
Not thay I know of. The screen is pretty much one unit, if it is bad, there isn’t much you can do.
As Dan said, the gray wires are for marlin mode. The black are for tft/touch mode. They both supply power at 5V. You can try removing one or the other. I would guess that if there was something wrong with the 5V on the skr pro, then it wouldn’t work either. So I think something is wrong with the screen. It shouldn’t warm up or go half blank after any amount of time, no matter what firmware was installed.
Thank you for the response, is there schematics for the display? I am not finding anything on the big tech tree website. Hope is to diagnose with the oscilloscope. (I design pcbs at a VFD manufacture at my day job). I do have all three cables installed but I only use marlin mode because the other mode seems more for printers.
As far as the walking away from the machine part I understand your concern and will be more careful in the future, normally I do not but this is a 6 hour job and I needed to walk away for a bit to take care of something 30 mins might have been an exaggeration.
I am just about to release new firmware. I have a couple more tests to run. The new firmware will use the touch side and not Marlin mode. I have added a few CNC specific buttons and we can easily add to it.
I have no idea why it came with a bugfix though, sorry about that. The weirder part is typically the bugfix versions are more current and better. Very few bugs these days.
I think the new stuff for the board and TFT will be ready Monday. They are both actually live now if you want to flash it now and just keep an eye on them to see if I make any tweaks. The beauty of the SKR and screen is it is dead simple to upgrade.
If there are still issues after that we can get you situated. My apologies.
This is kind of exciting for me, and I’m not even using the TFT35 on a CNC machine right now. I have 2, one is on a printer (Repeat) and the other isn’t connected to anything, since I’m experimenting with RRF on an SKR Pro right now. If the experiment is successful, i may end up using neither TFT35.
This is why I buy stuff from the V1 shop, right here. This kind of service is hard to find, and is innately valuable, so I will put up with the cross border hassles and delays. I feel better supporting a class act.
Thank you for the schematic it got me close enough to diagnose that the LCD controller seems to be working. I can trace signals for reset, dial rotation, SD hand shake, and power to the LCD. Looks like I just have a dead LCD display.
3 weeks ago…that is irritating. Sorry to hear. Not sure we have ever seen a dead TFT yet.
If you want to PM or email me your order number we can set up an exchange. I can send a label, I will test and send you either a repaired or replacement. Can you assure me there has been no physical damage done to the screen in any way to the best of your knowledge?
Thank you Ryan, I will email you and send pictures of top and bottom. I was very careful handling it even used my wrist strap during handling. The only modification that I had done was change the reset button to a longer stem version so that I could reach it through the case.
Shoot I’m sorry but if you have been soldering on it I can’t warranty that. I hope you understand. I do test everything before it leaves and we have an extremely low electronics issue rate (outside of my testing).
No problem Ryan, I figured as much and wanted to let you know up front. Do you sell just the LCD? It is really all I need, if not then I will place another order for a whole assembly.
I don’t. You can get them on amazon or ali quickly and way less expensive than a full set. The other option is using the 8266/esp-01 and going headless.
Update: New display purchased, up and running again. Tore the old display apart to get part number for just the LCD and after couple hours of research found the manufacturer but could only buy LCD’s in quantities of 5000. Also they only make the LCD without the touch so it would have been half the battle.
Thank you everyone for the assistance, I love this!
