Dewalt Motor Mounts snapped --- suggested fix

One day I was about to use my machine when I saw that both parts of my Dewalt 611 tool mounts had snapped. This is a problem I have had with other 3d printed parts that have to hold tension – they stretch and snap. That’s why I like hybrid designs combining 3d prints with metal and other stronger material. The MPCNC itself is a hybrid design.

So I crudely lopped off the bands of the Dewant mounts and and used auto hose clamps as shown. I left parts of the printed tool mounts and spacers to interface with the two metal tubes. Looks kludgy but works great. The worm screws of the hose clamps never loosen. A benefit is that it is very easy to tram the system as the hose clamps open quite a bit so I have lots of room to insert shim.

I could now cut better looking aluminum clamps but they would be harder to shim to get the motor trammed. So I will stick with this.

I just noticed my top one on mine snapped too. I also have the Dewalt.

I would try the clamps. I have been cutting aluminum for the last several days with no problems.

My only issue with the clamps is that there is no place to mount the dust shroud on my LR4. But I will probably do it with at least the upper one. I can try to model a connector or something for the dust shroud. This is a great solution though.

The only reason those clamps would fail is just from being overtightened, or a really bad crash. Either way, the printed parts are safer. Those clamps will not break so the next thing to break if you crash or overtighten now would be the Z mount plates which are harder to replace.

And I believe that is what happened with mine. For some reason, the z dropped what too low and slammed the router bit into the wood taking a huge DOC. It was just a fluke too. I’ve ran that same operation several times before and after.

Ryan makes a good point. In my case the printer has to live in my Tucson, AZ garage which gets very warm. I had to tighten the clamps once or twice and I may have overstressed them over a few periods of stretching and tightening. So if this is not a general problem one should stick to the printed ones. It made me think, as a car guy, that we need torque specs and we should suggest a torque screwdriver (they exist and are not too expensive).

Due to my harsh environment , however, I am sticking with my auto clamps. I may grind a partial slit in them to create a weak point in case of a bad crash.

I am pretty sure I actually did have a torque spec in the MPCNC instructions. It was just an educated guess, checking all my screws at the time.

I don’t recall. Let’s look. Being a tool freak, I’d love to buy a torque screwdriver. I need it for other projects anyway.