What did everyone use to cut the EMT tubing? I was planning on using a cutting wheel however I am seeing that they leave a very sharp burr and am thinking that a hacksaw would be better. I have a dremal and a cutoff wheel if those options are better.
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Do the EMT cuts need to be very accurate? it looks like they all have room to travel outside the mounting hardware?
Would printing some kind of endcap to protect the wires from the burrs be a good idea?
Most of the joints are through joints and can be tweaked to make it square. It’s part of the awesomeness of this design. I would take care on the z axis bits though it’s easier if they are the same size.
A cutoff wheel should work fine. If you don’t have one, you can get the cheap angle grinder and a couple of wheels for under $15 at Harbor freight. You can de-burr with a stone in your dremel or just a round hand file.
Get the tubing cutter. You can easily get the cuts within 1/32" with it. Nice clean look. Plus when I put together the machine I made the tubes flush with the edge of the printed pieces and it came out square within 1/32" with no adjustment.
I bought an EMT cutter (pipe cutter) many years ago - cheap. They make the cleanest cut, just need to deburr and you’re good to go. Now they’re around $20 in the Huge Orange Store - cheaper on Amazon.
I built my MPCNC with 304 SS tube, .069" wall… used a cutoff wheel for that, too thick for the pipe cutter.
The pipe cutter didn’t work well for me. It kept wandering off track and making a screw. I ended uo using a hacksaw. Following a line isn’t too hard and it ended up straight enough. It’s a workout though.
At first I used a conduit cutter and realized it left a chamfer and was super hard to cut. Then I went to pump department of Home Depot and got a pipe cutter. The tools identical except the blade and cut like butter. I didn’t even have burs after.
A bit pricier than some, I’ve used this tubing cutter and replacement wheels for cutting stainless steel… from Lowes. I’ve cut all the conduit for several machines with the original replacement wheel I installed…
Usually this happens if you are turning the screw too much at once. You want to just apply enough pressure to score it, then go a couple revolutions, then go another couple, rinse and repeat.
Not saying it’s your fault, could have also gotten a bunk tool.
Use a pipe cutter, go around the pipe one time, the reverse direction for one turn back, tighten repete. It will make a straight cut. Don’t just try going all in one direction, it may travel and just keep moving up the pipe. Deburring, use that Dremel or a deburring tool.
The debuting tool is great for cleaning up flash on parts you 3D print too!!
40 year Master Plumber, taught a lot of people how to use a pipe cutter and deburring tool in all those years.
I have a “conduit cutter” and I’m wishing I got a pipe cutter. (I may buy one yet.)
The conduit cutter has a shoulder on the blade, so it won’t actually cut all the way through. WTF? It cuts most of the wall thickness and the instructions say you’re supposed to break the conduit it by hand after that. Doing that leaves a nasty edge that a debur tool has a hard time fixing – the nasty part extends axially, not radially. Phooey.