Current 3D Printer Failed (BAD)

I know that this isn’t exactly an MP3DP topic, but I also know you guys have experience across the board so I was hoping for some advice. I have an Anet A8 (heavily customized) and now an Eryone Thinker SE that I purchased a couple of months ago from a neighbor. Well, the Thinker just tried to light my house on fire (see picture).

I emailed Eryone and they told me my board is bad and I should buy a new one for $50 from amazon. They were even kind enough to send me a link.

I obviously do NOT trust this company or thier product anymore and I do not want to support them by buying a replacement board. I was considering buying a RAMPS 1.4 to get the machine running again, but was wondering if you guys had any better ideas? It would be nice if I didnt have to re-wire the entire machine but it might come down to that. Here is the replacement board for reference:

I just want something that will run smoothly, not break the bank and if possible, maybe even use some of the same JST connectors that the machine currently has.

After a small amount of research, it seems the SKR 1.4 Turbo can support my current drivers (TMC2208) and should work with the built in display of the printer, is only $38 and runs Marlin which I am familiar with. I would still have to rewire everything though. Might have to just accept that…


I see at least a few of you agree on the SKR board. I see that Ryan has an SKR 1.2 Pro for sale, but I am not sure the difference between that and the SKR 1.4 Turbo? Is it just that it has a spot for an extra stepper driver and the power area has a cover? Also, do you guys have any recommendations for reliable places to buy these boards? I have typically just gone to the cheapest thing on Amazon, but I would prefer to do business directly with the supplier of a quality product and cut out Amazon entirely…

And one last thing (for now, give me another 5 minutes to think of another!), any idea what the name is of connectors the SKR boards use? They look similar to the display connectors on most printers. Thinking I might just make some adapter harnesses to my JST style plugs so that I don’t have to chop mine up.

The biggest difference for us CNCers is the pro has a configuration in MarlinBuilder releases. The turbo doesn’t. There is a skr (not pro or turbo) 1.3 config, but it is not as well tested as the pro.

For a printer, the pro has big mosfets and wire connectors, a spot for an esp-01 for wifi control, and 6 actual endstop connectors.

Ryan gets a big box of the skrs from bigtreetech. You can also buy them from banggood or ali express. If you live in Australia, it is probably better for everyone to buy it from bg and send Ryan a beer over paypal.

I think the motor connectors are JST-HX? I can’t remember the last two lettters, but they are 2.5mm pitch.

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Does that just mean that Marlin just doesn’t support SKR1.4 Turbo so there is no official release? So I will have to download something that someone has already set up or work through it on my own?

Wish I would have realized that before I got impatient and bought the turbo. I guess I will probably still want to upgrade the mosfets for the heated bed and nozzle element then. Maybe that would have helped prevent the Eryone board from catching fire…

I think you were close, I just ordered up these JST-XH connectors from ebay. Hopefully they are the same as what are on the SKR. The thing that is throwing me off on the SKR is that it has black receptacles and I usually see those JST receptacles in white.

Thanks again for the help!

Marlin supports the turbo just fine. The MarlinBuilder repo is for V1 machines.

The turbo should be fine. I think if you had a 300mmx300mm 12V heated bed, then you might need bigger mosfets. But to be safe, look up the current requirements and make sure you have some headroom. Those burns might be from the connectors more than the mosfets.

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Yeah, you’re going to need one. I just built a machine with the SKR 1.4 Turbo and a 310x310 12v bed. If you connect it directly to the board, it reboots as soon as the bed heater turns on. The one I have draws about 17amps by itself. I believe the SKR board is only rated for 15 amps max for everything.

I checked the shop and didn’t see any so here’s the one I bought.

It actually is a 300mmx300mm bed but its 24V. Still going to upgrade the mosfets. It’s worth the extra 10 bucks.

Looks like my machine is 24V, and the power supply maxes out at 14.6A so I might be ok, but I think the dedicated mosfet for the heated bed will give me peace of mind.

I had used a SKR 1.4 Turbo with TMC2209 for my build and worked through the Marlin config to get it up and running. My files may be of use in comparing to other versions (like stock Marlin, for example) for changes:

Alright friends, I MESSED UP. I am pretty sure my board is fried but I wanted to get your opinion on if its worth trying to fix or should I just get a new board?

I was feeling very optimistic as I had gotten the printer moving with this SKR 1.4 Turbo. I was still figuring out how to adjust the firmware to remove the “TMC Error” and my endstops have 3 wires which is a bit confusing. When I caused this failure I was testing out the fans and making sure I understood which one was for what (board cooling vs print cooling vs hotend cooling). Unfortunately, I am DUMB and left the board powered on while I plugged in and unplugged the fan to test the different ports. Thats when a wire dropped onto the board right above where I am pointing with the knife. Hard to say where the wire actually hit/shorted stuff but I do know that light brown component released the magic smoke that makes these things work and has a big blister there.

You think I can just figure out what that component is and swap it? Or should I write it off and buy a new board? This time maybe not a Turbo?

btw, thanks for this help. I must have missed it from before but I bet that would have helped me a lot!

If the scorch is all on the component(s) then you should be able to get a schematic and figure out a replacement. Sometimes a short can vaporize the copper traces on the board (don’t ask me how I know) - that’s harder to work around.

If money isn’t too tight, I would get the replacement board and then try the repair and keep the fixed one as a spare.

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At least it’s one of the easier SMD components to replace!

Any idea where I would find the schematic? I have seen pages and pages of info on the board but the best I have is a pinout of basic stuff. Not sure I would be able to read a schematic either…

Actually, here I found a link to the schematic. Now I dont know how to figure out that component placement on the board vs the schematic…

I have found some more clues… if I look elsewhere on the board, there are similar components by the fans in the lower right corner in the picture I took. They read “106 16k 005”. Googling, this give me a 16k capacitor. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing if this is the same as the one I burned. Anyone have an SKR 1.4 (turbo or not probably is the same) that they want to take a look at that component to read the top? I am searching pictures that people have posted of this board to see if I can zoom in and read it…

Highest res image I could find. Cant really make out the numbers, but enough to tell its different than the ones by the thermistor plugs.

Cap you are looking for is labeled C25.

Found it. 47uF/6.3v


My guess is that is part of the 5V power supply. That SGM chip is a step down converter. You may be able to just find a 5V pin on the board and connect 5V (along with the 12V) and skip all the soldering. In fact, the pro board has a jumper to swap between powering by the 12V (through this chip) or from the USB. If the turbo has the same, then you can just use USB to power the 5V stuff and let the 12V power the motors.

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Thank you!!!

So, I would think that in that case, if I power the board with USB, it ought to boot properly? I think I must have fried it worse than I thought. I just plugged in the USB and the display lights up but I get nothing else out of it…

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