Weeeeeeelll, ish. Makerbase makes a couple TFTs that with the CNC firmware loaded on them, will speak GRBL to the controller over the serial port. I have the MKS TFT24 (not the BigTreeTech one). The real issue is that if you are using the USB connection to your controller, usually something AT328 based, they share the same serial line and you get communication errors.
P.S. Thanks for the shout-out link!
This is the type thing I’m trying to get a handle on. Watching the MPCNC cut ply with a 1/16" bit it seems to not wander very far off line with multiple cuts. I’ve been curious if multiple cuts with a laser increase the kerf size appreciably or has any other bad effects? A bit’s one thing if I’m buying a laser I’d like to know what I’m getting into. I’m also curious since looking at the L-Cheapo site I see many more links to mounts for 3D printers than to CNCs and wonder if 3D printers are that superior for laser use or just more available?
Thanks for that and the links! It was a good day when I stumbled across the V1 website, I couldn’t be more pleased with the way things have worked out! 
I will look when I get home from work and send directions Christian sent me
I’d appreciate it! I may have to contact him myself but want to try a few things first. Trying to figure out why when I tried to drill 4 holes at the corners of a rectangle the transit speed between them became glacial, haven’t found a specific setting for that.
I’d say the kerf of the laser in 1/8" plywood is less than 1/16". Even after the 3 passes it takes for mine to cut all the way through. You do see some char on the outside edge of the plywood after it’s cut in multiple passes with the laser. The kerf could/would get larger on thicker pieces of wood. It’s due to the laser being cone-shaped around the focus point.
More companies sell mounts for lasers for 3d printers because more people own 3d printers than cnc machines. I have no reason to believe that my mpcnc is any less accurate than my 3d printer when not cutting wood (ie… with no side load). It’s only when the router has side load on it that I notice any flexing on the Z axis (still minimal depending on the speed I’m running it)
I need to do some more testing in 1/4" plywood now that I have the laser dialed in on 1/8". I do a lot of cutting of things for the wife in 1/4" plywood and I’d like to start doing them with the laser as it’s a lot quieter 
Definitely one of the upsides I’m looking at. I have the feeling I’ll try and get a handle on the basics but after that, buying one and using it seems like the best way of learning many of the things I’m curious about like cutting speed and how it affects the cut. i.e. slower speed = fewer passes , more char, or ??? I’d just like to find something known to be reliable from a source that offers some support if needed.
C:\Program Files\Estlcam11\Estlcam.exe" Profile=Laser1
The last part of the shortcut target Profile=Laser1. Sets opens a separate instance for settings that only applie to that shortcut and in this place is laser1
Hardly unusual but I’m a bit lost.
Should that be part of every Estlcam download? I’ve tried pasting it and different variations in File Explorer and the search window with no joy.
Make a shortcut then open the properties and the line target after the the existing line add the Profile= line
If you want me to rebuild a cylinder head or bore a block, no problem. But this? Problem. Not really my thing. I’m old, my only IT training was a contrived by the school binary language called Dummiestron that often had me key-punching cards at 3AM 
in the computer center and a course in Fortran, still grudgingly coming to terms with Windows 10, would take 7 back in a NY minute.
Fortunately 4? My spelling cost me 2 grades
Is that code for Fortran? Never heard that. But I did manage to write a program in BASIC that simulated an 8-deck shoe Atlantic City Blackjack game.
No that is autocorrect for Fortran when y I u don’t look 
If you want at some time I can walk you through it
I’d appreciate it, I’m usually not that dense, often a few breadcrumbs put me on the right path. And no hurry, I’ve lined up a fair amount of reading/videos on lasers and it’s unlikely I’ll have one for at least another 5-6 weeks. Maybe there’ll be Presidents’ Day Sales? 
Some rank beginner questions:
When cutting ply with the laser, what do you put it on? More ply?
If you’re cutting thin ply with a curve in it that needs to be held down, are woodworker’s tape and/or the painter’s tape/SuperGlue combo likely to cause issues with noxious fumes?
Those are some really good questions. I think most of us have gotten well ahead of ourselves with cutting stuff before thinking of hold downs that work lol. In this case poisonous combustion byproducts also come to play in that decision. Excellent job thinking this out first… I am making my notes in the background here.
Holding thin stuff that likes to warp after being cut is going to be an issue for me. One of the main draws of laser for me, is cutting fine details that the router cannot do… like that 0.5mm mask string on that 2020 ornament… if the router bit doesn’t eat it, good luck peeling it off two sided tape in one piece.
What really got me thinking of a laser is I made some fairly intricate cuts with the router in 1/8" ply held down with woodworker’s tape and the cuts were fine, but trying to free the narrow sections without cracking the piece was challenging and there was some delamination of the bottom ply from the tape being a bit too effective.
I’m comfortable with the router safety wise while I have a healthy respect for both the power of the laser and how it may transform some materials. Caution seems directly proportional to age.
Since I began fooling with a friend’s CNC mill years ago I’d say holding down the material was always one of the biggest challenges. Now if only we had magnetic wood. 
Seems a lot of folks going down the same road like to use vacuum tables. I have brainstormed those ideas a bit, and the biggest hassles with vac tables are 1) getting an adequate pump can be expensive, and 2) none of the vac table ideas I have seen would work well with laser (laser would damage the table).
Much of the laser Cnc cutting jigs I have seen have the material floating in the air… working on very small areas at a time. We know floating in air won’t work for some materials at the sizes we are using… unless maybe there are supports spaced under the part… and even then if the part lifts it won’t work.
I was wondering about this as I have an old vacuum pump meant for servicing auto A/C systems but there’s that material issue to deal with.
Right now I’m just trying to get things straight in my head so I don’t go and spend a fair mount of $$$ on a laser just to learn it won’t do what I expected it to…