Has anyone put together a collection of ESTLCAM tool definitions for the DW660? I’m a beginner and it would make it much easier if we had some defined feed, plunge rates, speed settings, etc. When I watch all the videos, I’m constantly reviewing the tool list in the video for tips on the settings. Maybe just screenshots of all the expert’s tool lists. I’d be happy to help put it together.
It depends on your build size, exact bit, material you are using, and type of cut. It is best to just make a few test cuts in the material you want to use and start a list specific to you.
All videos should have details in them and the basics page should get you started (there is even a calc). I can mill some woods at 9mm deep some people are cutting at 0.5mm. It really really varies. Once you get a hand full of cuts you will quickly get a sense of how your machine acts.
I agree with what Ryan said, there really are no set rules. I work in hard maple and walnut quite a bit and am most comfortable with a 4 flute bit at 22-25 mm/s with d.o.c. being half the dimeter of the bit. I use 1/8" x 3" bits and a single or double bit has too much chatter and flex and I usually break them. I’m sure Ryan is shaking his head but my point is there are too many variables to set hard rules, it really comes down to getting to know your machine and preferred materials.
I can’t say I am looking for hard and fast rules. I do understand there are many variables, but consider it a starting point for the beginner. A kind of… “these are suggestions across the forum, your results may vary”.
We could document the additional variables in the list. Add, the cut types in ESTLCAM (carve, engrave, part, hole), add the wood type, and range of size of machine. We could put a range on the feed rate, plunge rate, etc. Just make a big spreadsheet. I’m just thinking through the learning curve I had and believe it would have helped me in the beginning and would again as I try different and new cuts.
In my mind, this could take some of the variables out.
(just an example, could add more columns)
If I'm dealing with an issue on my machine, I could see if I'm within spec on the tool and my type of cut and remove that as my highest concern. Why not take some of the guess work out of the equation to help promote a great product. Even the fact that the 4 flute mill removes some of the micro-chatter helps.... it makes sense now that you state it, but I didn't think about it.
When I started, only a few months ago, I was obsessed… on a mission… to get my machine up and running as best I could and create beautifully carved items This would have helped me, but maybe the research I did helped even more…
OK, now I just went in a circle.
I’ll leave it to the experts, but I’d be happy to compile the data if the folks would send it to me.
Must also mention that this forum is awesome. Without it and the members on it, I would be lost!
Careful, not enough info to make a statement like this. A 4 flute on a 660 would start a fire at 30K. At 20k-30k I love a single flute
My suggestions stand as they are on the basics “impatient” section. 8-15mm/s adjust depth before speed, for every material and bit. Slotting, pockets, engrave, drilling, carving, plunge. All very different numbers. HD foam<pine<MDF<plastic<metal.
A chart simply will not work. A 2.5"Z machine usually handles insanely more load of a 6"Z machine…but then you have to think a 2’x2’ footprint handles insanely more load of a 4’x4’. A Stubby bit handles more than a regular, bit stick out matters, Work holding, spindle accuracy, run out, angle.
It is extremely complicated but doesn’t have to be if you start in foam and work you way up on your own build. 3D printers were claimed to be easy at one point a lot of manufacturers are a lot more careful with the wording now, but CNC operator has always been people’s extremely well paid careers. It takes experience, I can’t think of any way to short cut this.