CNC-cut table for LowRider v3 (parameterized, for cutting full sheets+)

Also, I’d like to point out that my short axis parts were designed heavily using @Mcunn 's portable table idea. They’re not exact, but the initial idea was definitely his.

I couldn’t figure out how to build out the design using a 4x8 sheet of ply, because my table has a 49x97 cutting area, that allows for full sheets of MDF. Which would require pieces be at least 112" long for the length of the table. I’m no engineer at all, but the idea seemed like a good one. But probably outside of my scope of designing sadly.

1 Like

I’m not saying you’re mistaken I just had in my mind that to be able to cut a full sheet the bed itself needs to be longer than that - 2823mm is it? So planed lumber would be ideal in that case

1 Like

When I was building mine

Portable Lowrider in Annapolis - LowRider CNC / Your Builds - V1 Engineering Forum

I planned on a longer set of struts by laminating 2 pieces of 1/2 plywood on either side of the strut. As I used electrical strut on the outside it handles the flatness.

Never did build the larger struts though but I did make a shorter set.

2 Likes

I still love your table! That was very well thought out. I also saw your video on it in the prototype stage I guess?

So my thought was to take your struts, and at the end instead of having them vertical, just flip them horizontal for the LR3 to roll around on. Looking back, I think somehow UniStrut could still work. But again, I’m not really a designer, or engineer so what sounds good in my head isn’t always a great idea haha!

1 Like

Yeah that’s a cracker.

Remember, it’s not the bed that needs to be longer, it’s the side rails that need to be longer, and I’ve already planned for (and explained above, in the OP) that the rails would be of some type of longer wood or lumber. EDIT: I referenced them being cut from 1" x ?" x 10’. However, as per Ryan, it would be better to use an engineered wood, even if it has to be two pieces glued together. To quote Ryan:

And again, him answering me asking what to do instead of dimensional lumber:

1 Like

The fun part is finding dimensional lumber that’s actually straight. That’s why I used unistrut on my big table.

With the spoil board being the same size as a sheet of mdf, which is usually larger than a full sheet of plywood, you get the ability to add clamps to the ends for doing end grain cuts on lumber.

2 Likes

I’ve been considering adding unistrut on my LR3 build. But what I initially thought was my table wasn’t very ‘flat’ turned out to be broken plastic in my LR2. Once I rebuilt the LR2, that problem went away and I discovered I actually have a very flat table. Just, my floor isn’t level. sigh Always something… LOL

2 Likes

image
Just reading in the shadows lol
I think I was like 4” off of a full sheet build for my first table.
Now I am sizing and building onto a different table.
I think I can make it so I can utilize a whole 4x8 sheet.
Many hours just staring at tables and my garage trying to get a game plan.
I am trying to make mine portable, but later on down the road I would love to build one of these proper tables.

3 Likes

Yea, my barn’s floor moved between seasons, so I had to make it adjustable.

2 Likes

To be fair, the table was the hardest part of my LR2 build. That’s why I got all excited when Ryan said he might have a CNC Cut LR Table coming down the pipeline in the future haha

2 Likes

Yes sir. My thinking on it is twofold:

  1. There is to be a table “frame” extension to attach the 1x4 lumber to, which could help straighten it/ keep it straight.
  2. I would plan on a version that’s made for unistrut. And that’s probably what I would go with if I made it.

I tried using steel studs for the core, don’t do that. :rofl:

Yea, mine slopes towards the back. When I level that end of my table it puts a slight hump in the middle, So I need to figure out some sort of levelling device, kinda like washers used to have those automatic levellers on them. IDK yet.

2 Likes

Yea, that should work. The plywood should be stronger than the wood warping, if you can get it before the warp tries to happen.

1 Like

HAHA I remember that!!! I think I even asked you about it once!

1 Like

Yea, one of my torsion boxes had a slight warp to it, so I bolted the table to the floor, not realizing it moved so much.

2 Likes

I am probably heading to lumber yard today to get two 4x8 sheets.
I have to use the table my mpcnc is on so I will do a basic flat table for that to hand on the wall or roof.
Then put my two existing tables together so I can do the full sheet thing :frowning:
Basically move my whole shop around lol. I am very indecisive

1 Like

Your table is amazing, and I don’t fully understand so it seems a little like magic. LOL

This shows the two special Y spars on the two “extensions” that help support the Y rail-plates for the LR3 to ride on.

So far all I’ve done is basically parrot @Ryan’s napkin sketch, but it’s all parameterized.

I think that in Ryan’s these are closer toward the table center, perhaps as added depth of support for the Y EMT rail holder screws, etc. ?