I put it in that order because you can have those parts fit fine but still print a leaning core. The big parts are where the printer calibration really pays off as far as the skew correction.
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The docs need a more prominent disclaimer to leave the screw out! And yes, you all know which one I am talking about! 
Even though there is a disclaimer about the second endstop position (I wrote it, so I know it’s there), the question comes up fairly often. Maybe it could be highlighted even more.
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It can be hard to prioritize stuff for making it more obvious. I can tell you, most people don’t read everything and even putting it in a note or warning box can make it more likely to be skipped. In this case, a picture of the hole with a red circle and a caption saying to leave the hole open would be the next form of highlighting it.
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Here is my line of thinking.
Warnings make people nervous. “is my $200 hand me down printer not good enough? I am not going to chance it”.
This is only needed if your printer is really really far off. The LR4 does not have many actual precision fits. The Z stub and Z nut are actually an extremely loose fit. If they don’t work, you have a big problem, but they are by no means a test.
The core actually has a test pattern built in, but I don;t want people getting scared away by a .2mm tilt. The machine will still work fine. I am just not really sure if any of the parts really matter that much.
The suggestion is there if you want to test, if not just go for it. These days off the shelf printers are fine, this is really for the DIY or old printers from people who like to know for sure.
I like that, just not convinced the stub and nut are really that strong of an indicator. Or like the previous reply, that they even matter.
then you have to have a set of calipers big enough for the test, edit and flash firmware and retest, we will lose half the DIYers to that step alone.
A crooked core means you need to shim your router later if you ever cut thick material or even care.
I would rather people make a machine and use it before chasing zero’s. Or the people that only strap a pen or laser to them, it is not needed at all.
I agree with Heffe, the only way to prevent it is take the feature away, and I still think there is a use for both.
That stub clam screw works perfectly, you just need to take two minutes and set the leadscrew angle and test up and down motion twice. It will be 100% needed is we ever use a fully captured rail.
I think the hardest part is we can only guess how many builds are actually out there. How many per year, 1k-10k-100k, more? Even in the forums, we currently sit at more anonymous users than logged in. FB users numbers are far larger because you have to be logged in to use it, one user on reddit asked “what forums”, I bet most forum users ask “what reddit”.
All that for this point. let’s say there are a million builds per year, and we get three issues per year about using the Z stub locking screw. Significantly that is nothing, but it is a big issue from our point of view so we are acting on it. So more realistically 1k-10k still a small statistic, is the time better spent elsewhere? Instead of fighting the SKR issues we made our own board, way less issues, Instead of stub skrews or printer calibration do I make a redesign with more adjustable parts. Do we type our way out of this or engineer our way out, this is my daily struggle.
I am always very careful about adding words to the docs. More words and they get skipped over (print calibration warning). Fine line. But if in three days we only came up with 3 sticking point in this thread I think we are doing fine. Now how do they need to be fixed…
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I just wanted to say that looking around the docs, it looks like a ton of updates have been made. Overall, I think it’s looking pretty good!
Thanks, I needed to hear this. When I built my LR3, I bought the printed parts because that was too adventurous for me on my Ender 3. My printer printed generally ok, but not sure it was good enough and that also would have taken forever at 60 mm/s.
Now, I have a Bambu P1S and it prints way faster and beautifully so I intend to print the LR4 parts myself. I did buy the calilantern test print when I briefly had another printer. That was probably more out of curiosity than anything else. But, then I start reading this printer calibration emphasis on the forum. Then I read that I can’t adjust skew (although maybe I can now). The calilantern documentation says Bambu Studio can’t adjust sizing (it can).
We were discussing somewhere that it may be good to add some general warnings somewhere so you don’t fry things. Some of these may exist in certain places by I think listing these in a common place would be helpful. This isn’t a comprehensive list but:
- Do not unplug/plug in without turning off power to the controller.
- Be careful moving the machine by hand since it can damage the controller.
- Be careful on the Jackpot V1 to not plug in the ESP32 backwards.
- Be certain of the correct polarity when powering the board
- Vacuum hoses must be grounded.
A couple minor tweaks:
Jackpot3 CNC Controller - Onboard
- In the “If your show has a strong home network wifi signal..” section. It should list http://fluidnc.local instead of http://fluid.local. That is the default anyway. You can change the host name to use something else.
Jackpot3 CNC Controller - Other Control Options
- Hey cool FluidTouch is listed. I just want to note that is wireless not wired.
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fixed, thanks
These are all actually in the docs, maybe just not in the best places?
I tried to put them where they would be first seen. Vac hose grounding when you are installing the hose, etc.
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So milling basics, is a hotword. I think we need a hotword for the jackpot troubleshooting section…and that section needs a little updating.
I HATE, telling people to read something and not being a natural conversation, I never what to say “search before asking NOOB!”. But in this case “hey my jackpot is broken send me a new one” is getting old. We then ask, jp1, 2 3? from v1 or elcrow? lets see a picture of it wired? what steppers?, $SS? etc. I think a flow chart might be good in this case. I think I will be poking at this for a few days to see what I can come up with.
So if some has a jackpot question we can say, what step are you at on this flowchart, or start here and let us get you there quicker.
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Full disclosure from a newbie to 3DP, I definitely got anxious reading about the calibration stuff and decided that I would simply not do that and hope for the best, since my brand new A1 printed a couple other things perfectly fine. I say this to validate your idea 
More disclosure from a newbie: I was just going along with @Jonathjon suggestions cuz I know he’s one of the OGs and certainly knows better than I do in this area. This is to again validate Ryan’s point that we need to strike a balance between minimal instruction (zero confusion) while also covering what is necessary to get up and running, which as we all know is no easy task!
I’ll try and do some more thinking on the docs this weekend… I had gone through and done a second big update (a bunch of small changes) before the holidays, but the MD file viewer/editor extension I used in VSCode added extra returns everywhere and totally borked the ability to submit to git, then I got busy and haven’t prioritized it.
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Well, now that a lot of these actual suggestion are in the docs and just not seen. I think I need to cut them down more. There are still too many pages, or poorly named or linked or something. I need more summaries, with expandable deep dives like the jackpot specs are in the docs.
I think when we made the docs is was so dang easy to add pages we just kept making them. Now I think it is time to swing that habit the other way. Any edits I make will be condensing as much as possible with links to more info.
the theme we use is no longer being maintained and switching over to the new project. So this is going to get weird soon I think. I hope it is going to make things easier, not just more functional and harder.
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The best way to make large changes is not to use the inline viewer in Github, but to run it locally and run it with MkDocs so you get a real live preview of your changes with the CSS applied and everything.
If you are so inclined, I have a Docker setup in my PR here that lets you run it in a container mounted to your local source, so you don’t have to install all the dependencies locally
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Can’t you just “click” edit in the corner of the docs and change it, then submit a PR? You don’t even have to visit github.
Top right.
Leads you to GitHub. Whoops. 
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It’s ok for small changes, but the Preview there doesn’t have the CSS applied.
If you are making large changes to the docs, sometimes you need to run it to see how it will really look
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Apologies that my “minimal instruction” was a bit vague, I actually meant to say exactly what you said here.. the info is all there, and heck there’s plenty of people who’s intro post is them fully locked and loaded with no help needed! Always really cool to see
Awesome, thanks for the tip! I cloned the repo to my Mac and opened it in Cursor (fork of VSCode so it supports all the extensions), and used the extension “Markdown Editor”. It does do the live view that is also editable, but it turned out to be pretty janky in the end 
it felt like it had a mind of its own and made tracking changes impossible. I’ll definitely check out MkDocs and your container, thanks again!
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I still only have a ender 3 will it print a lr4 ok?
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Yes. Personally printed all LR3 and some LR4 parts with my Ender 3 Max (mostly stock, but added dual gear extruder mod). My LR4 parts printed after using Calilantern are measurably better, even though I’d used Teaching Tech calibration site in the past.
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Sure. I just never printed anything that large on my Ender 3. It will take a long time to print and if one of those large prints fail, I would go crazy. Comparing my Ender 3 to my P1S, it prints at least 4 times faster. That speed increase has led me to using it way more than my Ender 3.
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I printed my primo with it and it is slow 
just wanted to be sure with what was being said about older printers as this one was never top of the like 
There is nothing wrong with older slower printers for printing V1 parts. The problem comes in when people try to push them too hard because of how long it takes, then they get into under extrusion and poor layer adhesion because it cant move the amount of filament it needs to at the speed they are trying to hit.
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I printed my LR3 core on my stock Ender 3 Pro. Took like 18 hours, but it came out just fine first try
Edit…
Well, not completely stock… it was converted to use Klipper, so I was able to do Skew compensation.
I spent some time checking frame square, getting it as good as I could, then ran Calilantern and adjusted skew.
But was still using the stock Bowden extruder and all that
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LOL. mine took almost 48 hours. I was using small layer heights and a complex infill pattern, which added a lot of time, but it came out fine. I did print all of my smaller pieces first, which helped to identify any print issues (and there were several) before tackling the core monster.
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