I believe it is in the front right corner which would be both the X and Y axis. It just seems odd that it is pretty much the same position on these leg locks but I printed the core after printing these and it didn’t have any inaccuracies on the lower layers. And it’s only on one side of the part. One side looks small until this odd transition point and the other side looks fine. I’m just going to hold out on printing these again until last and if I run out of this CF filament then I’ll make them out of PLA. Just asking to see if this was unique to me.
As in the file itself? That has been proven thousands of times over.
The shift is only in one direction. So it was shifted in X or Y unless you placed it on your bed at a 45 degree angle and that would be even more odd because it would have sifted exactly the same in both directions. The print itself corrected perfectly as well so whatever happened stopped happening without missing any steps. That is extremly odd.
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I wasn’t thinking the file was bad. I just thought maybe if it was due to unzipping the file or something with my slicer than maybe someone else may have experienced it. But, looks like I’m just the lucky one.
Given that it is just this part and the way it’s happening, I’ll just accept my printer just doesn’t like this part at the moment. I’ll just wait until everything else is printed then I’ll trouble shoot it some more and let you know what I find out.
If it happens every time you print it, download it again, move it to a different location on the bed and try again.
I don’t think I have ever seen a corrupt part file with such a minor corruption.
I have two questions:
Is the nut trap the same as as the one on the Burly? Are there any other components that are common between them?
Also, does anyone know the space needed around the Primo for it to be in an enclosure? I already have an enclosure and want to make sure I size my machine correctly.
Best to print all new parts.
The calculator page show the footprint of the build, outer dimensions, from there add an extra inch or two for your clearances.
From my experience, that kind warping near the bottom happens when the bed temp is high and no print cooling is used. The part appears to shrink slightly just above the bed, until the layers are far enough from the bed to cool properly. Bbed adhesion keeps the bottom layer from shrinking; so it forms sort of an hourglass cross section. I’d try adding just a smidge of cooling air shortly after the first layer to see if it helps. Also, asymmetrical warping on smaller parts (may appear similar to layer shift) can be caused by the same thing if there is any uneven airflow near the nozzle… for example leaking extruder heatsink air washing over one side of the part.
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I did not know that could be from a cooling problem. I have it in an enclosure so there shouldn’t be any air washing over the part. Do you think either opening the enclosure to reduce the temp or letting it get hotter before printing would also improve it?
With PETG and this one specifically, it was advised to turn off cooling so I’ll try your suggestion and see if it helps. Thank you.
Some slicers have add ons that can insert gcode at specific layers. This can be used to turn the fan on only during the affected layers, and off above a certain layer to promote adhesion. With this you can measure the height of the deformed area, do some simple math, and insert gcode to turn the fan off at the correct layer.
Edit: I also use and enclosure… summer time in my garage it becomes hard to keep the enclosure at 28c that works for petg… I just leave the door open to help.
I don’t know if it was the file or the cooling but I re-downloaded the file and tried messing with the cooling and now those parts are printing great. All that is left is to print all the small parts and then start building.
After a bit of a hiatus due to house projects and budgeting, I am finally back to assembling my MPCNC. I also wanted to get my lathe up and running again after the move so that I can make all the legs the same length. I’m trying to spend a little extra time and effort this time around to get everything as close to perfect as possible. Here is my current progress.
The x and y dimensions are less that 0.5mm difference and the diagonal dimensions look equal as much as I can tell. The leg heights all measure the same as well.
My time in the evening to work on it is limited so I probably have another week or so to finish the assembly.
In the meantime, does anyone have good links for cable management solutions for the J version of this? I’ve seen some good setups on here but looking at printables and thingiverse hasn’t come up with any that I really love.
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I finished putting this together and set up the rough wiring to test the homing and getting it square. I’m using the dual endstop setup just like I had on my Burly. With the endstops, I’m around 0.2mm off when squaring so I’m good with that.
I have a problem maybe one of you can help me with. I have the Rambo board and even though I believe I wired it the same as before. When I home X and then go to home Y it restarts the board. When I first turn it on I can home either but once I go to home the other axis, it resets the board. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
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Sounds like the endstops are plugged in wrong. Triple check so you do not pop the board. Each side is opposite.
Here are pictures of my board. I checked the schematic for the board and I think everything looks good.
I’ve been using the Home x and y independently in the motion menu. I can do one but then when I do the other it will raise the z axis like before and then the board resets. I’ll do a full home sequence instead of doing them independently and see if it goes OK.
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I would verify things are working with a terminal in repeater host and run M119 to test your endstops.
So, I installed repeater host and it was giving me weird readings so I decided to just reflash the board. After flashing the board again, everything now works fine. I don’t know how or why it got messed up but now it seems fine. Thanks for the help.
Now I’m off to work on wire routing and then I can get to cutting again.
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I finally got the wiring completed and cleaned up. Now to check my accuracy. Does anyone have a good method to keep the z axis from falling from the weight of the router? My burly would only drop if the router was on which was nice since I had it turn off the router before disabling the steppers.
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Nice enclosure!
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Thank you. I scored the main frame from work, I just had to enclosed the upper portion and add the light. The downside is that it limits the size of my mpcnc. The nice thing about it being out of aluminum extrusion is the side walls can be loosened and lifted so I can pass through larger pieces that I can do in sections.