Or some similar warning… We had some good lightning recently and my machine is kind of not doing much of anything. My luck is amazing… As a last ditch I plugged into the esp and tried starting things up, it gets stuck loading. I checked the terminal and it looks like it’s in a loop with a red ‘brownout detection’ in the mix. It’s the same whether I’m just powering through the usb, separate from the jackpot, or installed and power up the jackpot as well. I’ve tried erasing and reflashing fluid but during restart it gets stuck in the same place and shows the same warning.
I couldn’t find much of any info on similar issues. I just ordered a new esp but if I could salvage this one as a backup I wouldn’t be unhappy.
I think for the ESP32, that means that the circuit that generates 3.3V is having an issue.
Are you getting 3.3V if you check the pin with a meter?
I’ve read a few places where this has happened that it can be a issue when trying to power the wifi or something like that.
If it looks like you are getting 3.3V on the pin, I remember seeing Mitch tell someone that he had to solder a small capacitor between 3.3V and GND on his to stabilize the voltage.
If there’s no voltage on that pin, then maybe the regulator got fried?
This is the most likely reason. 3V3 stability is really important for the ESP-32.
This is the test, though to really see the problem may need a scope not a DMM. For a scope, you set it to trigger when the 3V3 drops below a a threshold, say 3.0V and watch what it does. With a DMM you have to get a little lucky to see the voltage drop.
The screenshots note this, anytime there’s a significant inrush you can get a brownout if the 3V3 regulator can’t keep up with the inrush. Mitch fixed the one discussed below with a cap, but that may have been a bad (crappy or improperly substituted part) or broken cap or cold solder, etc.
This kind of problem frankly can also be a bad (Blown) ESP-32.
Putting the ESP-32 in its socket the wrong way round is a good way to break the ESP-32 Dev board.
It can also be software running amok on the target.
Yeah, I’d try 3.9.1 as there are a lot of bugs in the earlier.
I have recommended using the native binaries and following that pattern of full erase and the two installs for a while now. Something has been getting worse using the web installer.
I reported a file upload issues I have been seeing, no response yet.
I can not figure out exactly how to say the installer is not working as well as it was. I can’t find anything specific other than it connects less often. And I always seem to need the boot button now, and never really used to need it. Using the native binaries, the boot button is never needed, maybe one in 50? So something is differnt but can’t pin point it.
I was looking at the wled installer, which led me to the esphome installer they are both based off of. I see that edge and opera are also supported,so I tried edge. It seems to be a bit better, but that could just be the fact that I work my browser pretty hard getting many esp’s ready per day.
The next one that does not want to flash I will try to install esp home or wled to see if they go or not more easily.
I know at some point he was messing with the timing when the really bad import boards were not flashing.
I think this is not so much on the FluidNC side but rather the changes in browser and OS level configuration and permissions needed to use the serial interface from a web app through a browser.
I’m also unable to sort out what exactly is changing other than to say I see a difference- and don’t understand it.
The native installers, meanwhile, have always worked for me, on all three OS I use (Linux, MacOS, and Windows)
Thanks for posting. I tried a 47 micro F and I was still getting the brownout. I then used the next size I had on hand, 100 micro F between the 3.3v and GND pins and my brownout error went away. This was just a quick test with the ESP connected via USB only. I haven’t tried it in the jackpot with the cap yet. I hope to later this afternoon. I do believe I have 3.9.1 installed and will verify when I try it in the jackpot.
Never mind. I soldered the 100 micro F cap between the 3.3v and GND pins, retried it on the computer USB and opened up fluidterm - still had the brownout message. Sorry. I too was hoping I could save my ESP as a spare.
nevermind, it’s still showing brownout, just not in red.
It’s weird that it will let the install do it’s work with no errors, but then fail during actual boot. Is there any way to disable the brownout detection?
I’m guessing it caught a spike and it’s probably toast, but I know it’s getting power.
Wait i just used the website the other day, and it worked well, even the wifi part, what happens when it fails? I even used it to regress to 3.7.17 when i thought fluidnc had a problem with tinybee.
