Bolt torque values

Hi everyone,
I’m getting close to assembly of my MPCNC.

Since it has been stated multiple times in the documents to not overtighten the screws to prevent the printed parts from cracking, I would ask for a good torque value to aim for (I’ve got a bike wrench from 2.5Nm to 25Nm or 22 lb-in to 220 ln-in) that I could use.

I’m really looking forward for your input here :wink:

Best regards
hackspider

I can give you the table for torquing my wrx cylinder head if you want :thinking::hugs::stuck_out_tongue_closed_eyes:

Jokes aside: i don’t think there is a torque spec for the mpcnc (i can be wrong) just dont tight them to make the bolt break the parts

After the comment i did a quick search, there is no bolt torque specs. Just doit by hand without going into Hulk mode

The light touch is also based on a car mechanic’s understanding of light. I was much too gentle with all of mine. :smile:

What I recall hearing is “snug” but not “tight.” It can be tricky when using nylon-insert nuts. My suggestion is to go snug enough that there is no play in the bolt for most of the connections, then you may need to tighten the ones that manage the friction between the bearings and the rails just a hair more, but wait to see how it’s running first.

My philosophy was “if it turns out this is too loose I can always do another 1/16 turn, but if I’d heard the cracking noise it was already too late.”

2.5Nm is more than some of them need.

The trick here is that torque is really the wrong way to think about it. It takes next to nothing to make the plastic flex, and the majority of any torque applied goes into overcoming the friction from the nylock nuts.

In almost all cases, just seated is the right amount to apply, with no real pressure applied. Eventually some things will loosen and you’ll see some bearings lose contact with the tube that they’re meant to touch. When that happens, tightening just enough to make contact is all that’s required.

Any actual tension is practically guaranteed to result in a cracked part at some point.

Until you hear the plastic crack… then print a new part and go a little looser.

Okay guys I see where we a re going here :smiley:

Seems like starting easy and go tighter were needed w/o torque values is the way to go. Since you all got your MPCNC running I hope that will do for my MPCNC. Wish me luck.

Best regards
hackspider

Yeah… But you didn’t ask how many parts I’ve cracked…

Good Luck!

I wish you patience instead of luck. Going over and over everything 4 times doesn’t need :crossed_fingers::four_leaf_clover:

Good luck!

In general, too loose doesn’t damage anything, but gets suboptimal results. Too tight cracks parts and gets suboptimal results.

I have printed 4 mounts for my spindle and a core or two and i think 2 bottom feet im a slow learner :stuck_out_tongue: high humidity in the basement does not help either. Llots of cribbage boards 100’s and knik nacks over 4 years things get brittle

You should get a simple heated filament dryer (they cost less than 40$ ) and make some kind of cheap enclosure box for your printer. You will never suffer from that