I’ve gone ahead bought a spindle and started 3D printing parts today. I dusted off my old RepRap printer and pleasantly surprised it worked without much effort… it has been collecting dust for the past few years. Nevertheless I’ve got the springMounts and sensor sleds printed tonight. And planning to print the bigger pieces at my local library.
I ordered a custom fab of the baseplate from Xometry for a great price of $80 and it was cut semi-locally in the USA.
But I didn’t notice that the dxf file doesn’t include the countersink call-outs for the holes… so now I’m gonna attempt to counter sink them here at home with my hand drill and countersink bit.
Feeling a bit nervous about it, now idea how to get the needed countersink diameter other than drill a little at a time and test the fit with actual head of the screw bolt
Countersinks complete.
I took my time wasn’t too bad. Able to eyeball with the drill and just periodically clean the aluminum chip/boogers off the bit’s cutting edges. A few of them I had to finish the last couple fraction of millimeters by hand.
Thanks for the comment because it will help me stay motivated to take the time to document and share.
I’m anticipating that the build will not be too difficult for anyone that is compelled to be using a handheld router. And that individual likely has a sufficient level of carpentry skills meaning they at least understand concepts of precision and have some amount of patience and grit as personality traits
But I don’t know yet, I could be wrong…
Good stuff! I did the countersink holes for all the baseplates in the kits and went about it in a similar process. I got a drill press which I imagine probably made things quite a bit easier . Make sure that those bottom edges are nice and free of burrs too. Any burrs can prevent the machine from sliding well.