Ben's 3' x 6' Rebuild with pics

Two years ago I did a 2’x2’ build that only cut one test part. Since then I’ve been messing around with a Taig Minimill cutting all kinds of metal, wood, and plastic parts, but have been frustrated by the small table size. So I’ve finally realized that all along I could have had a huge table (compared to the Taigs 5" x 14" table) if I completed the mission of resizing the MPCNC.

Due to being tight on time and budget, I’m going for a dead simple table. I built it this past Saturday, and somehow ended up making the legs a bit too long so I had to chop them just below the lower supports, but actually, I think I like the height since I’m 6’4"; and the low supports now create a huge area under the table to be used for storage. So it worked out. On Sunday I disassembled the old build and discarded the printed parts because many of them had cracked, probably from being a bit too tight, and being in a cold garage for two years. I’m hoping this doesn’t happen again so I’m going to go a little easier on the tightening.

I’m printing the latest burly parts and going with 25.4mm stainless tube. Reusing the hardware and Ramps 4.1 board.

I need to order the remaining upgrade parts today. Does anyone see anything missing from this list?

  1. Longer belts
  2. New zip ties
  3. Some more limit switches for the auto squaring deal
  4. Upgrade to auto squaring firmware on ramps board?
  5. T8 Lead Screw
  6. Longer wiring. I see there is now a series and individual kit. Would the individual kit work with my 3' x 6' tube length? The kit says 60" but my 6' tube is 72"
  7. New rails (acquired)
  8. Wire sleeve
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Hey Ben, just throwing this out there, add some diagonal braces to the legs. My mpcnc can wobble my table and it’s built on top of kitchen cabinets! I also had to add some to my beefy lowrider table.

Hey Barry! It did cross my mind. Was going to wait and see. Do you think I need it on both X & Y ?

At 6’ you will probably need to extend them. Can’t wait to see what you think of the new stuff.

Thanks Ryan! Really looking forward to it, especially now that I have some CNC experience under my belt from the Taig. What would you recommend for the wiring on this 3’ x 6’ with the auto squaring? I do have the old wiring, but I’m wondering if I should start fresh with one of the other options you offer. And also, what would you extend that selection with?

Thanks so much.

I would say, use it as you had it for now. Then add the auto square later since it is pretty easy. At that size you might easily be able to square it by hand. The smaller it is the more auto square helps.

As much as I want the auto squaring, I see the validity of this. Won’t have to reflash the board, will only need a couple wire extensions.

On the other hand, there is the argument that I should do it now while I have everything torn apart and am upgrading everything. I was looking into the measuring tape guide and the whole thing looks like something I’m not going to look forward to ripping apart.

If I can get away without using it by squaring everything up really well that makes the most sense I guess. I was just excited at the prospect of super accurate cut geometry.

Either way really. You can wire it individually and plug in the series harness near the board (that is how I test firmware) then switch at any time.

It wouldn’t hurt, but definitely on X(assuming it’s the long side). They don’t have to be giant X’s or anything, just cut a 2X4 with 45’s on the ends, maybe a foot, foot and a half long. Stick them up in the top corners and call it good. You could also use a piece of plywood along the back, also doesn’t have to go the full height, same foot, to a foot and a half. Basically just to keep the legs from racking.

Took me a minute, but I just figured out what you are saying. Just ordered some more drv8825 from Amazon, and an individual wiring kit along with a few endmills from you. I was reading something on here about the benefits of a lower top speed but more power. Do I get this with the individual wired setup?

Also, It amazes me that you are still on here relentlessly answering questions and excitedly making comments. You’ve got some drive and dedication man.

All the parts!

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I see you’ve also accidentally glued a part to something with the residual glue stick glue!

Bold statement…Not always exactly excited… :wink:


Doesn’t apply, individual is a win win.

Started building last night following the instructions again. Got as far as the nut lock and noticed that it’s not included in the new files or the list of files. Wondering what I am not seeing here…? I’m using a leadscrew, but the instructions say to just add the nut lock without hardware in that case.

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I have updated everything but that page of instructions, Working on them today.

You will notice a piece that looks extremely similar, the spacer. You will have two of them the previous parts had one or two and/or a nutlock. If that doesn’t make sense check back this evening hopefully I will have finished taking the pictures.

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Getting my Z & leg tubes dialed in.

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Holy cow!

Making good progress. Realized I should have ordered two of the wiring kits. I had to rig up some bootleg extensions that seem to be mostly working so far. I am having a few issues though.

I’m on Ramps 4.1 with each motor wired to its own driver to utilize the auto squaring firmware. When I connect to the board with Repitier, most of the time I can manually jog the Z right away, but the X & Y takes sometimes 30 seconds of clicking the button for them to move. Also, my X2 motor seems to be lagging or underpowered. I move and the X1 motor goes fine, but the X2 acts like its sluggish or slow or getting caught up on something. I tried swapping out the drivers but it still does it. I triple checked the wiring. When the motors are off everything moves freely. Any thoughts on what could be causing this?


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Make sure they are all moving the correct direction and the drivers are set properly.

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Hi Ryan,

All motors are going the correct way. I just adjusted all the drivers to .630 V.

Still the exact same behavior. Y2 motor lagging. Also The X axis works well, but then after a few clicks of manual movement, both motors become totally unresponsive. Could this be some sort of communication issue?