Balsa crankbait questions

Hey everyone. I’m working on my first real project, outside of drawing a few fun things and cutting a plastic cover out of some 1/8 stock, and could use some advice. I’m trying to cut some crank baits out of balsa wood for my brother in law. I found an STL file on thingiverse, reduced the mesh in fusion so it would like it better and set up 3 different tools paths to cut one out. I tried it in the green foam you put cut/fake flowers in ( I know its not the pink stuff from home depot but I had it handy) and it seems to have worked quite well.

I have a couple of questions though.

  1. I ran this at 2000 mm/minute, with an 1/8 inch 2 fluted bit. I know balsa wood is going to be harder but do you think this will hold up? I see 1500ish in pine and balsa is going to be half at most or less than half as dense. Do you think 2000 will hold up? I know the best way to tell is just to test it but any advice would be great.
  2. This took 31 minutes to complete, with over 20 of it coming from the roughing operation using 3d adaptive in Fusion. And watching the tool path, it just didn't seem very efficient. I know I screwed up a few things setting it up originally, first I set my clearance height way too high and z movement was slow, whatever it defaults at. I have no idea what I should be setting that at and if default is right, lowering my clearance will still make that movement way more efficient. Also I didn't change my rapid move speed, so it was actually moving slower above the work piece than it was cutting. These are easy things that shouldn't be an issue, but the path looked might inefficient. Lots of stops and starts and picking up and moving to a different section to just cut a single slot and then pick up and cut another slot somewhere else. It sure seemed like cutting in concentric circles without all the wasted movement would have been way faster. Is there a time when the adaptive clearing is more appropriate than others?
Oh and the bait isn't smiling, its where you insert a plastic bill :) [attachment file="bait.jpg"]

Sorry double post

 

bait.jpg

1 - Maybe, slower and deeper is always the better option, as that is faster. less Z moves, less moves in general.

2 - That looks prime for a flip and a cut it all at once?

A flip?

Cool. Great use of the tool.

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Milling both sides. It looks like you plan on gluing it together, a flip means one solid piece. It is an advanced technique though.

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Got it… Actually there will be a flip involved but it will be to create a pocket for weights and for the eyelets for the hooks and line to attach to.

It does bring up a great question though so I might as well ask now. Setting up the flip seems like it could be a pretty standard move with dual endstops, but I haven’t added those yet. I was thinking of measuring a specific starting spot on each side, and then marking it on the stock and lining the tool up with that to make sure everything is aligned properly but is there another better way?

The machine is easy, with your gcode just drive out of the way, pause and wait for the LCD button to resume. The hard part is the flip, using two posts drilled by the machine is in my opinion the easiest to ensure it lines up. For this part the line up is not all that crucial but it is a great test part to perfect the technique. There are other ways of cutting and aligning The most crude being cut all the way through and line the material up by eye to the previous marks on the spoil board.