Router v-bits?
Or are there other styles made specifically for CNC and best used with the LR?
Wanting to try light v bit cuts/carves but unsure about the bits used.
I’ve used a few different styles and nothing like what you show.
I got this recently and it works well.
I have one of these but I haven’t tried it yet.
Depending on what you’re doing with it, tapered ball nose bits work well too.
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Thanks, I’m guessing the router bits are not suitable then.
I found this style in 1/8” which seems to be the right style like yours, will try this.
Not sure what I’m gonna do with it yet tbh 
Just want to experiment and see what’s possible
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That looks reasonable.
That’s half the fun.
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I’ve used these bits you show for years and made and or sold many v cut designs with a 6o degree v like the giant red one in your example.
We are using routers, so router bits work just fine. For higher detail, the 30 degree bit will give you a steeper edge and a narrower width for a reasonable depth. I typically run to a depth of 3-5 mm when carving and use a 1/8” endmill to pocket so the v bit only does the edges and not the bulk of the cutting. After a lot of use, the tip of the v can get dull, so choose your bit wisely or you will get fuzzies and it takes a long time to clean up. Just yesterday a 30 deg bit from the V1 shop shipped and I expect to try that one on the next epoxy inlay that is to be completed this next week. Good luck. Just make sure you have the bit settings correct in your program and you will be ok. If cutting really hard wood like oak or bamboo, test your feeds and speeds.
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I made a video of testing a similar set of cheap v bits. See my post:
https://forum.v1e.com/t/v-carve-example-videos-for-10-150-degree-bits/42781
I have found that it is super important how sharp the edges are and how pointy the tip. So it helps to use a microscope to look at them. Any cheap usb scope will do.
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your 60 cuts like mine. I guess I need a new sharp bit. the 11mm wide 60 degree was awesome for throwing foam chunks, but it always left fuzzies at the tip of the v.
Thanks, thats cool, they’re widely available and quite cheap, my only real worry was whether they are too much for a hobby machine like the LR as opposed to regular handheld routing etc
They’re mostly 1/4 I think, whereas the CNC style is 1/8, so I’ll try each for the respective size and see how they go.
Any tips on bit settings? I’ve only ever used the 1/8” upcut bit so any other bit I don’t really have a clue
oh and beware: they were supposed to be 1/4” shank and are 6 mm, so they are quite loose in the collet until snugged down. They work, but were not 1/4” as advertised.
1/4 or 1/8 only matter for your detail requirements. I interchange them depending on how fast I want to go. 1/4” will cut faster because the chip loading is different. With every bit, you have to test and see what depth and speed to use with each material.
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I’ll have to confirm somehow, but I think Makita routers sold in the Thailand region might have stock 6mm collet (never used the stock one, went straight to 1/8”) - I would hope that stores selling bits and routers use a regional standard but you never know, I’ll make sure to check
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thanks for resharing that. The fuzzies and tearout are all to common with my cutting but more often problematic in soft woods. Hard woods tend to not do that. Is there a way to sharpen the bit or is the only option to buy a new one?
I have this Amana as well as the ones from V1. Just note the steeper the angle the deeper the letters if that’s is what you are engraving. For simple letter carving I love the Amana 90º as the carved letter are not too deep have more of a hand carved look.
I have tried to sharpen some simple bits, with mixed success. Best thing would be (if they are pricey bits) to save up a few dull ones and pay a tooling sharpener to do it.
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