I am in the USA and after all of these years I am going to buy my four rolls of filament and start the trek but this is where I need help. 3/4 inch is what we are supposed to purchase but the sag will be great (especially with 3-5 pounds of a router on it) for anything usable. 400x400 I am getting the vibe will have a usable area of about 200-250 each direction which is really small so I would need about 600x600 (at least) and the sag would be horrible.
1 inch EMT versus 3/4 inch how much better is it for fighting sag/droop at 600x600 dimensions? Which plastic parts do I need to print off for the 3/4 inch and if I do go to 1 inch which for it?
Next question is the electronics and what sort of amps is going to be required since this will be cutting Aluminum and wood? For a 3d printer 1-1.2 amps is normally enough but for this I have no idea.
I have a usable area of 730mm by 730mm. While not recommended, I have not had to worry about sag. The rotary tool that I have is about 3.5 pounds and is plenty strong. The DeWalt that is recommended isn’t that heavy in the scheme of things. I do have mid span supports, although that doesn’t do anything for Z axis dragging everything down, But honestly, it hasn’t been an issue. I think 600 x 600 is good. I have only used wood and foam. I haven’t tried with metal, but I have milled oak, cherry, walnut, and some hickory that gives some resistance and just working with the complementary feed rate, It has been great. Not sure if such a build is going to work for tight tolerances on aluminum, but that is a New Year test. Using 1" (howevery you measure the appropriate OD) stainless will give you a little more stiffness for sure while being a bit lighter for size than EMT. Don’t know about the large EMT. Now you are adding the extra weight of the pipe and you get a diminished return, from what I reckon.
Perhaps you might consider the Low Rider if you are wanting something bigger. This is precisely why Ryan worked on this design, to offer something for folks who wanted to go bigger. Ryan recommends stainless for this build.
I do not like the low rider with the table I must have and the skate wheels etc… What I want is a working area of 300mmx300mm and Z will come later for me but I figure 80mm of material would be my limit.
For 300x300 working area what size would that require me to make it?
That would require a 570.5mm by 570.5mm table dimension with 564mm x 564mm perimeter conduits.
It would be interesting to have a survey that everyone put in their exterior dimensions to get a sense of what is the average size build. I was shooting for around 28 to 30" usable space. 2x large than normal dimensions. It works great on small parts and is also able to handle cutting out large letters or other parts.
Are you more interested in fine 2.5D milling of things or cutting out larger parts or engraving lettering and design? If milling, going big just requires so much machining time for large parts. But for cutting out stuff or engraving, it’s not bad at all.
I did try that calculator before I posted and I got lost as all get out so ran off to here.
For wood it would be a mixture but mostly just cut out large pieces for laser engraving or engraving on the CNC router. Now for aluminum that will be for parts so would end up being a combo of everything.
Btw, the calculator tells me I need at least four 10 foot EMT pieces which blew me away so I must have been using that calc wrong.
They do, and they should even cut it for you (although I don’t know how precise their cuts will be, but you can get it rough cut down to manageable lengths)
I will check them out on after the hollidays to be sure they can do it. They can’t cut wood worth a dickens so a nice pipe cutter will be purchased at the same time so they can butcher it up.
Yep, I saw a video about that and it does make it a piece of cake but does it ream the outside as well? Oh, for me I plan on the Makita tool or something I can go slower with and optimally something that uses an ER collet but darn if I could find that out there.
Yes, the “blades” round over the ends of the conduit, inside and out.
Sorry for the confusion, DeWalt just happens to make the reamer bit as well as the “standard” spindle. You’re a long way from dealing with that particular bit of fun.
Heck, I’ll be using my Dremel 395 for a while, maybe get a vinyl cutter… Need to make room in the garage (and probably an enclosure) before I’ll be allowed to make any serious chips.
Yes, the chips, OMG, the chips. I need something for that as well and this one video of him doing aluminum the chips was piled so high I considered it a hazard for the machine.
There are no parts available for 1" EMT. The 23.5mm is the OD of 3/4" EMT, which has a 3/4" ID. 25.4mm is for 1" tubing, which is measured by OD. Tubes are structural, so they measure by the outside, pipes (like emt) are measured by the inside, because that’s what they can carry.
Otherwise, looks like you’ve had everything answered. I will also add that the MPCNC isn’t permanent. If you decide it’s too loose, you can cut it smaller. If you decide it’s too small, you can build it bigger with new pipes. You can’t easily change from emt to SS tubes, but even that is possible and you can save all the hardware and electronics.
Looks like the best way to cut the pipes on the cheap is to buy a regular pipe cutter and reamer. Seems pipe cutters have gone insane in pricing so I found one on ebay new like the old school ones and it includes an extra blade. I will pay more but I will just buy the 5 foot pieces since K did my leg work for me (thank you).
I go to Thingiverse and grab the 23.5 and the 3/4" EMT, right? btw, is there a BOM for this so I know how many parts of each I need to buy?
Cubic. Gyroid looks neat, but I’ve not found it any stronger that cubic. It also shakes the shit out of my printer, and the steel shelves it’s attached to… Maybe I’m printing too fast. Really any infill that makes straight lines is faster, and just as strong, so cubic, or triangles.
Burley is the latest version of the design, that’s the one you want. I can’t remember if the old ones are even still available, maybe for folks that need to reprint a part.
If you’re printing in petg, add a couple top, botton, and wall layers. Pet is more flexible than pla, so that’s how I overcome that little niggle.
I did a part last night for my 3d printer (finally had time to finish it) and did Gyroid for the first time and the first print it completely missed some screw hole walls (was very strange) so I redid it and slowed it way down and in sections it underextruded (gaps in walls). When I bent it the flex was worse, I think, than my standard rectilinear I have been using for 6 years (almost 7 now).
Oh, for all parts I use 3 walls and 3-5 top and bottom layers as I read some research about walls and beyond 3 the diminishing returns kicks in so 4 is the max I normally do. Is that enough for these parts?
