Looking forward to the build, my filament should arrive today and I can start ordering the remaining parts I need.
I intended to create a build with a 2000 x 800mm work area and mount to my bench which is 2300 x 1150. I am a little worried about just using up my entire workbench though. I am wondering if there is much calibration required if I were to remove the belts from the side that rests on the bench and parked the gantry at one end to free up one side of my bench, then remount in the same spots when I needed to use it?
Alternatively, I thought about making the conduit the full 2000mm but on the opposite side creating a mount point for the belt that was only 1200mm and swapping between 1200mm and 2000mm spacing as needed. Would this be a simple quick change in software or is this going to require too much calibration each time?
I have previously designed a parametric dust hose adapter to fit my vac hose to the different tools I have. I have been 3D printing some and selling them but thought I would offer it to the community too. I cant add the OpenSCAD file to this post so will host it somewhere and provide a link. It includes flares to ensure a snug fit at either end.
if you can live with the x min side belt tensioner mounts mounted on the bench at each end, then you can certainly park the gantry at either the y min on max end, disconnect the belt, then use the rest of your bench as desired. afaik, no calibration will be required when remounting the belt.
re. 1200 to 2000 swap, that would require moving the belt tensioning mounts. it is pretty easy on the software side to adjust the config, although if very careful, would not actually be necessary.
Awesome, thanks for that. I could probably live with the leaving the mounts attached to the bench and just removing the belts as needed. I was thinking about adding threaded inserts to the bench so they were easily removed and added back in the same spot.
I am currently converting my Ender 3 V2 into the E3CNC and might try use that to mill the alu plates, otherwise I have access to a carvera which should do the trick. Looking forward to the build!
I toyed with the idea of upgrading the E3 to CoreXY but I also have a K1 which has been great so I don’t really need another printer. Whereas I currently have 0 CNCs
Also, is PETG-GF really not recommended due to flex? I live in Australia where ambient summer temps can hit 40+ Celcius with my shed getting hotter again. I am concerned about PLA warping in the heat over the years. I have a bunch of PETG-GF, more than enough for an LR4 build.
my lr4 was actually my first machine, i got into the 3dp’s after building it.
where abouts in oz are you? i’m in melbourne.
can’t really comment on the filament choices unfortunately, but no doubt someone here will be able to clarify soon enough.
Greetings, @James_Keillor ! Welcome to the V1 community forums.
That’s right. PETG isn’t as rigid as the alternatives, making it way less desirable for our machines.
For high-temp applicaitons, the recommendation is PET-GF or PET-CF. NOTE: PET is NOT PETG! Different materials. I believe what @vicious1 found is that PET-CF is a bit more rigid than PET-GF.
If your printer can do it, you could also use PC-GF or PC-CF. Those are much harder to print successfully, though.
It’s summer time here in Colorado, and my un-conditioned garage spends a fair amount of time at 40-45C. I’ve had a LowRider in there for a couple of years and the PLA is still fine.
You’re probably well advised to consider PET-CF for at least a few critical locations.
The authorized fully assembled/partially assembled machine builder is @Jonathjon at North Woods Custom Creations. I think he does his high-heat builds with the core, the two end braces on the beam, and the YZ plates in PET-CF. The rest of the machine I believe he leaves with PLA and has had good luck with people in hot climates (He’s in Florida). Hopefully he’ll chime in with some more guidance.
I have a pla brand that does 80 degrees C and if you cure it in the oven at 100-110 degrees C for 15-60 minutes can handle upp to 100 degrees C. It´s called HT-PLA from add:north.
I recently reprinted the makita tool mount and dustshoe with this filament.
When I look at the data sheet for that material, the tensile strength is only 34 Mpa. That’s a pretty substantial hit compared to the alternatives. For example polymaker PET-CF is up around 66 Mpa.
Depends on what you use your CNC for. The min endstops are used for positioning and squaring. If you remove it from the table it is not going to go back in the exact same position. For signs and stuff no big deal, for dimension sensative cuts, you would have to do a lot of work resquaring everytime.
As much as you can reasonably achieve.
You have to be a bit careful in comparison. For example Prusa provides on their data sheet the worst case tensile strength (Z), where many others only tell you the best case (XY). Some give you both. But as a point of comparison- ordinary Prusament PLA lists 59Mpa.
Your 62 is really good if it’s in Z, normal if that’s for XY.
As another point of comparison- 6061 aluminum is somewhere around 310 Mpa.
There is a point where it’s good enough and “better” doesn’t add anything more to the machine. Ryan probably has better guidance on that front.
I’d just advise to steer clear of the lower rigidity materials. Some of the gimmicky PLAs are down below 40 Mpa. PETG is somewhere around 45.
Some really good info here. I’ll go with PLA since its what I can get easiest and cheapest anyway. Worst case if there is any warping in summer I can reprint once I find a decent PET-GF or something.
A few people doing small E3CNC builds using PETG-GF so I can always use it for that if I find some other printers.
