I’m reading here…
…But I’m no engineer, and I’m not able to discern an answer. Who can take a shot at it? @vicious1 ?
One one hand, I like that it says 5052 is resistant to corrosion, which seems to bode well for using it as a strut without anodizing it. On the other other hand, it sounds like 6061 is stronger… I think?
The XZ plates I sell are 5052.
Stronger is the issue here. Stonger is not an engineering term. This is PLA vs PETG. 5052 is far less expensive, easier to machine, weld, bend. 6061 is more rigid. So depending on the application is how you choose it. For us both are far more rigid than MDF so save the money and use 5052. As for corrosion resistance they are very similar as far as I know. We don;t run in saltwater.
Airplanes use 7000 series from what I remember (more rigid, harder to work cut weld bend). So you can use less material to achieve the same rigidity, with the cost of hard to work and that actual cost is higher.
Awesome, thanks!
would 2mm thick 5052 solid plates be stiff enough/ light enough to replace the 1/8th hardboard?
would love to hear with what size you went with and your results!
I would imagine so!
Probably/maybe? 2mm is very thin and would only help in one direction, where we believe the hardboard to help in two (twist). Only use it if you have it, and can machine it. Otherwise, 1/4" hardboard is pretty stiff and might be better, and considerably easier to mill.
I wish I could buy 1/4" hardboard here. All the stores have here is 1/8" hardboard.
seems to be an issue for me as well in LA which seems crazy is it more common internationally?
OK I’m a week late, but I came across this yesterday. Interesting info on thermal conductivity as far as it relates to milling.
I’m a little late to the game. Aluminum is stupidly expensive for something that doesn’t need to be milled. I just did a 2mm fiber cut mild steel plate. It’s plenty rigid and not that expensive. It also seems like by the time you bolt it to the skeleton, you’re more than rigid enough in terms of planar rigidity which keeps your bars from flexing.
what did that cost? where did you source and did it add a lot of weight?
What thickness would you recommend for a weight/ stiffness parity if there even is one? Im running a 1.5k spindle so ive already added extra weight and would like a bit of stiffness upgrade from my 1/4 inch mdf which seems a bit flimsy
The tension is along the plane, that is why there is three. The flimsy direction is supported by the next plate.
so would a 3mm alumunum strut be more rigid in both directions or would i have to bump it to like 6mm or something to be more rigid then the 1/4 mdf?
The best you can do is 1/4" or a bit more with pockets for the screw heads.
MDF is what it was designed for. I really am not interested in trying to do any FEM to figure out where the line is between the two materials. 1/4" MDF or better is fantastic.
What I understand of the tensions on the LR3 beam, the strut basically needs to keep the braces from moving. The stresses are keeping the M5 bolt holes from getting closer or further from each other. In this way, the struts keep the X rails from sagging or bowing under load. There is also some twisting force, but flat material will always be relatively weak against this, which is why the original beam using 1/2" conduit was abandonded in favour of 3/4" conduit (or 25mm tube or 1" tube.)
So the short answer is that I believe that 3mm aluminum will be at least as good as 1/4" MDF, and can probably have thinner “spokes”.
