I am trying to realize some parts for my training sword ( so called Bokken). Therefore I started to create some 3D-parts.
Here my first results.
Target is to create a scabbard (saya) for a wakizashi bokken (small japanese sword). For these initial tests I used European beech.
1st side, which will be the inner side of the scabbard.
I have to say, that for this test I used a normal 8mm miller so the structure is not very fine but the result is really cool. Of course there is the need to do some manual finish.
Bevore glueing it together there need to be done some works.
Also the outside part needs to be revised and at the end to be coloured.
For the Katana specialists: I know, currently the kurigata is still missing, but it is planned to create one
As mentioned before, this was only the first test. For the next 3D-parts it is planned to use some exotic woods.
But I have some questions:
Normally I can mill (with my MPCNC) only parts up to 50cm (ca. 20 inches)
I would like to create some 3D parts up to 100 cm (40 inches). Therfore I need to mill every side in multiple steps because I have to move the wood after each step over the board.
Has anyone experiences with 3D-milling, 2 sides in multiple steps?
Problem e.g. in EstlCAM is, that you have to turn the parts in x-direction. Much easier would be to turn in y-direction (in my opinion)
I also tried to contact @christian-knuell if there is any trick or recommendation.
We do not see all that much two-sided milling here. That is such a great example, Great job. Please keep posting updates as you go.
Unfortunately, I am not sure about estlcam for that. I have three suggestions though, you can make you MPCNC into a longer rectangle (couple new tubes and belts) and skip the multiple flips, swap out to a LR4, or fusion CAM might make all those flips easier.
Are you planning on using traditional or modern day glue?
Did you think about changing the cut direction (up and down in your first photo vs left to right) and using a ball/round nose bit to see if it will reduce your finishing?
What version of Estlcam are you using? I had tried a 3D carve in 12 but I couldn’t find an option to add tabs.
I am using normal modern glue, not traditional
I will try to change some parameters the next time. I also got some different millers like balls etc.
Currently I am using version 11 so the older version.
@SupraGuy
This was the first time I used the cnc. Up to now I did all manually.
As mentioned I will try to realize the bokken and saya out of exotic wood.
Forgot to mention: I am doing Battojutsu.
These are some examples of the manual works
I use this (sharp) Katana below also for (single, standalone) training. The blade is from Edo period (so round about 350-400 years old). Only the Koshirae is new.
First I have burnished the outside with a planner and I have adapted the opening so that the thicker part of the sword (Habaki) fits into the scabbard. This part is locking the sword in the scabbard
Very nice! I built my own bokken by hand years ago and alway wanted to make a scabbard for it but never got around to it. Would have been nice to have a CNC back then.
I also purchased The Craft of the Japanese Sword to eventually try to make my own someday. Still on the bucket list. Keep up the great work.
@vicious1
I think I found a way to use my PRIMO and EstlCAM … working in multiple steps and mill parts up to 100cm (40 inches) or larger on both sides.
It will need some “calculations” in moving the origin for the multiple steps but should work
Keep up the great work.