Mine only holds 2 spools, but its not even a “filament dryer” Its a cheap food dehydrator off amazon that I modified lol. I also have some totes with a gasket sealed lid that @Michael_Melancon suggested to me. So I dry 2 and put them in the tote, then dry 2 more lol. Don’t need them all ready to go at the same time. Can only print so many spools at once lol.
1 Like
unless it is 10 spools, well then that is different!
It is 10 1kg spools, 2 in the dryer, the other 8 waiting patiently in the box 
1 Like
ohhhh, that is great deal then!!!
I know anecdotes aren’t data, but I got a spool of elegoo matte black and it’s been a nightmare to use - feeding problems out the wazoo… I replaced a bunch of my Bowden parts thinking it was my printer’s fault, then on a whim threw in a 2 year old spool of some pink GST3d (I miss them) PLA and it’s back to printing perfectly.
Regardless of your PLA choices, Prime Days seem to be a good time to buy PLA:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0834W2MQN?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have 3 X1 Carbons, 2 A1 Minis, CR-10 Pro V2, and an Ender 3 Pro. (Couple Resin printers but they don’t count in this scenario)
Given what I’ve read and your situation, if the A1 won’t cut it then go for the Flashforge AD5M. I looked it up on Amazon given it’s price and speed, I would just go with that.
1 Like
You and me both!! I still have a bunch of their wobbly ass spools laying around. Going to work on respooling them tonight actually.
I’ve used a whole bunch of Sunlu filament and never had issues. Does anyone know of any issues using that brand of PLA for the Lowrider?
A standard A1 should be great for V4 prints with its 256mm^3 print volume, but the A1 mini will be a bit too small.
2 Likes
Picked up a Creality K1 Max a month or two ago and I’m really liking it so far. Seems pretty reliable for a larger format printer, too. Zero issues after the spool of PLA that came with it and a random spool of PETG I’ve had sitting around for 4-5 years…
Yes, my bad, meant to say A1 mini as that’s what OP was initially talking about.
2 Likes
Hey, if elegoo pla is the cheap stuff you use, what is the fancy stuff? Have you used elegoo pla pro?
No. Pro has things added in it and tends to not be AS stiff as regular PLA. When I originally printed my full sheet LR3 I used Overture PLA Pro. When I was having issues I rebuilt it and Ryan pushed me to use regular PLA instead of PLA Pro, and I noticed a lot more stiffness from the parts.
The Fancy stuff we are talking about is PET-CF/GF. With the CF being the most rigid. Its quite a bit more expensive and prints at MUCH higher temperature than PLA. It also has a much higher temperature rating as well.
1 Like
Awesome, what pet/cf or pet/gf do you use. I use makerhero petg/cf for everything about 240°c. It is expensive but I love the stuff, So I am taking advice here for something equivalent quality. What brand of pet cf/gf do you use?
I have used these 2…
Nice, I think I’ll got the cf, the sirayatech one. 
not all that much more expensive than the petg-cf I’m used to. Thanks
1 Like
some day pet will come down in price.
2 Likes
I’m thinking about one of these. How are you finding it another 3 weeks in if you don’t mind me asking? I really need an enclosed printer for the winter here in our drafty old house. I read about 1st layer issues and putting standard full version of klipper on. I quite like the idea of not having a project for a change.
By all means, ask away! Glad to see someone else considering it. I was a bit mixed about getting it based on the commentary I’d seen online but the price vs features were too good to pass up.
It has been excellent. Zero first layer issues, zero adhesion issues. I’ve only put a kg of PLA and a kg of PETG through it so far and it has been perfect. Probably the most demanding print I’ve done so far is the Flexi Factory print-in-place flexible T-Rex, which came out amazing.
Everything articulates like it should, the snap-together pieces are firm and rotate easily with enough friction to stay in place. Next plan is to build a maximum sized version for a friend in either black or rainbow PLA.
The only odd thing was that the default PETG profile used the cooling fan which resulted in brittle prints with the eSUN PETG that I’m using so I had to turn that off. I saw the comments about rooting it and so on but I decided to just use it for a while first and it has been fine. There’s nothing yet that I’ve found that I’d need to root anything for.
My bed was tilted very slightly (~1mm front to back, not terrible over 300mm) but the mesh leveling dealt with that with no issue. I decided I wanted to try improve it slightly so there’s a Creality standard bed leveling process I followed. It’s basically loosening the Z drive belt, screwing the bed down with the shipping screws, re-tensioning the belt and re-doing the bed mesh leveling. Mine didn’t really change much after doing that so I printed some shims that go between the Z ‘trucks’ and the bed frame attachments. I think I used a 0.6mm in one corner and a 0.2mm under the back and that brought the whole thing to within 0.5mm at all points on the bed, which I’m plenty happy with.
Bed leveling process:
Bed shims:
I’ve also looked at all the complaints about the door swinging open and breaking as well as the printed parts to fix it. I planned to do that fix but after using it for a week I realized that short of me tipping it over on its side there’s zero chance I break the door like that.
The Creality slicer is a bit different to use in a few ways but nothing that has caused any actual issues and it has enough nice stuff like being able to one-click print and monitor the printer remotely that I’ll keep using it.
The web interface for the printer works really well and is nicely responsive…
I also got one of the Creality Space Pi filament dryers at the same time. It works fine and seems to match up with K1 Max’s filament path reasonably well. The touch-screen is hot garbage but that’s fine, it’s not super critical. I printed a little tab that holds the lid open when it’s in drying mode to allow air to circulate. I also tucked a couple of packs of silica gel from filament packs into some unused space in the bottom of the dryer. For a full reel of PETG I propped the lid open with the printed tab and ran it on the PETG setting for 4 hours. I then let it cool down, pulled the tab out and shut the lid. Since then it has been maybe a month at 60-80% humidity and whenever I turn on the filament dryer to check the internal humidity it’s around 15-20%… It works surprisingly well just like that. I haven’t needed to re-dry the filament since then and it has been printed perfectly.
That’s everything I can think of. Hopefully that helps! Absolutely feel free to ask if you have any other questions etc. or want me to take photos of anything specific, check dimensions etc.
2 Likes
That’s brilliant information and very reassuring. Thank you, I’ll have a look at the slicer and see if it installs easily in Linux.
I do like the idea of things working out of the box.
I’m sure I’ll have other questions, this is going to be my partners Christmas present to me, so plenty of time to research, before I tell her what she’s bought.
2 Likes