Im currently printing the parts for my first MPCNC :). And been thinking of what i can do with it rather than just CNC. So iv got a 3d printer mod i want to do, But i also saw this video a while back by Voxel 8 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pESuE6m1iv8&t=71s. $9000. But i also stumbled across this video for a “no etch pcb”. gave me afew ideas https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwwA1d2s2OQ&t=33s , i did have a read of voxel 8’s patents. looking for there ink formula, “The functional material may include silver, or a silver-containing polymer composite ink” so to me "
What i was thinking of was using a water based ink pen, closest to inkjet printer ink, plotting the circuit design with the pen. and then using a paste extruder to paste the outline. removing, heating up and removing the excess paste. I fort of using a paste extruder as the only attachment and then designing a shim to go inside where the syringe for the paste goes to hold the pen.
Id like to know if anyone else have had experience in this sort of thing?
They are using a laser printer, not an inkjet printer. I’m not sure why the silver paste is sticking better to the glue than the paper, but I’m guessing it’s in the chemistry/physical properties of the laser ink. Inkjet ink probably won’t work.
Are you trying to make circuits inside 3D printed parts, like the first one, or are you trying to make your own 2D, 1 layer PCBs like the second one? If the latter, using the MPCNC as a PCB mill is probably easier and better. I’ve also seen someone use an MPCNC (I think it was an MPCNC) to make an etching mask. They coated the whole PCB with something black, then used the CNC to scrape off the ink/paint where they wanted isolation, then etched the PCB and cleaned it off.
For making 3D printed parts with traced installed, aren’t there conductive filaments? I think the key would be to print that stuff (if it’s hard) and make the MPCNC dual extrusion. I don’t know how well just silver paste would work if you extruded it into a cavity using a CNC machine. Rework would be pretty tough!
well i liked the concept of both, 2d and 3d, the voxel looks great, every one sounds great,MIT, one clip this woman is playing a 3d printed electric Ukulele. But you look thu that, electrically wise its probably a pick up and a resistor. the guy rubbing thermal paste into printer ink, now thats clever.
I want to try out that acrylic ink, as it will do for circuit boards if i can get it to extrude well enough for finer details for 2D, you can also mix the graphite with elmers glue apparently. might make a good component glue. and i also want to see how it is printing in a 3d object. The voxel ink is more conductive, but im eager to know why all there ink is hidden inside there prints, does it go hard, is it just paste. been out 3 years and theirs no reviews.
I saw one where they painted the copper with black spray paint, and then used the MPCNC with a laser to burn off the areas to be etched. Standard chemical bath and rinse to remove the copper, and a wipe down with acetone to remove the paint leaving the copper traces. I will be trying this at some point…
Just a hunch, but it’s because a) it’s cooler and b) most wires are insulated. It may be that it’s still fluid, but I wouldn’t bet anything on it.
That would be really neat. I’m not sure about how to extrude it well though. I remember someone had a clay extruder, but it wasn’t super fine resolution. Getting a consistent viscosity would be key. I wonder if you could get by manually applying the paint. For example, in the quadcopter part, when it pauses to insert the controller board, what if you just threw in a blob of conductive paint, and scraped or wiped away the excess. I guess I’m not sure you’d get terrific adhesion on the next layer… I’m also not sure how well the paint works to connect to components. That will be something to test before you make a bunch of changes to make a paint extruder.
Well i reckon using a plunger type extruder, bit like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JsL4bgl_OWY , may work, fluid shouldn’t fall out of a syringe and if i can get a thin enough line, you wouldn’t have to make any channels to accommodate the wiring, you would just have to make sure your got enough infill density to support the line of paint and print over the top.
i was thinking of that, connections, i have to see when i get too it, as conductive filament is prone to not connecting properly. what i would do for the input and output connectors tho is to use some tabs of adhesive copper tape, print over the bit i want to connect and solder a battery or motor to the other side of the tab.
theres conductive filament being sold for 3d printers. Just build a mpcnc 3d printer then use conductive filament.
I mean you can use cnc or chemical etching but if a working design can be made with a combination of conductive filament and regular filament then thats more automated to 3d print as many copies as you want and a more powerful idea.
Yesterday I was thinking about how a 3d printed house could theoretically be printed. By leaving cylindrical holes in the structures the plumbing could be 3d printed. By using graphene or some other type of filament the electrical circuits could be made. It would revolutionize the entire construction industry. No more paying the contractors 100,000 dollars to build you a house. People could have savings of 90,000 dollars on their house! And actually have a consistent product.
Well the problem i see with conductive filiment is the layering on the z axis is very resistive, you could probably get away with using older dip integrated circuits that have voltage’s between 5 and 12v. Meaning if you run it off 12v, youv got 7v you can loose because of resistance before it stops working. However if i can lower this resistance enouth and comeup with a calculator to work out resistance per “mm”, i can factor that in while placing resistors in the circuit for more complex circuits.
Conductive graphite filament about $50 per 500g
Volume resistivity of molded resin (not 3D Printed): 15 ohm-cm
Volume resistivity of 3D printed parts along layers (x/y): 30 ohm-cm
Volume resistivity of 3D printed parts against layers (z): 115 ohm-cm
Electrical wise, graphene does have some great properties but i still reckon electrical wire is probably more realistic currently, Scientists have hypothesised a graphene rod, inserted into the earths mantle would not only handle the heat but also conduct that heat to the surface for thermal electric power generation.
Printing a house, id say the main issues would be the lintles above windows and doorways. also rebarb for added support or the foundations, maybe you could bore some holes in the ground where each corner of where the house is, fill it with concrete and then create a base upon that.
sorry i havnt got much to say on the matter as im not that informed on concrete building techniques, but if i get any ideas, you will be the first to know. But great idea none the less.