3d-printed Christmas gifts

Kirby Lamp / nightlight

https://www.printables.com/model/342867-kirby-lamp-nightlight












I remixed BODY3D’s Kirby model into a lamp, using Fusion 360 as the modeling app.

Q: What lamp bulb, cord, and switch are used for this?
A: It uses this nice, cool-burning LED lamp bulb and accessory cord with switch (affiliate link):

  • https://amzn.to/3hGaHtn — “Accessory Cord with One LED Light Bulb - 6 Feet UL-Listed White Cord with On/Off Switch Plugs - Perfect for Holiday Decorations and Craft Projects, 2 Pack”

Q: What type of filament?
A: PLA — I used TouZ White PLA

Q: How much infill?
A: Recommend 100% infill, so the light transmitted through the plastic won’t show infill pattern lines.

Q: Are supports needed for print?
A: That depends. :slight_smile: The original file is listed as printable with no supports. However, that assumes infill inside a solid body. For a lamp, we need the inside hollow, while the “skin” gets to have infill (100% recommended). This changes the dynamic regarding supports. In my case, I tried printing the lamp without supports, and the print struggled at the very top of both of Kriby’s arms and the top of Kirby’s head. The arms were tolerable, but the head issues were not. So, since the very top of the lamp did not print well without supports, I decided to let the lamp go with a hole in the top which lets light out better anyway. I sawed the flawed top off, and the lamp looks great. See pics.

My print notes:

Because I needed to churn out quite a lot of Christmas gifts with my printers, I opted to print with 0.6mm nozzle and extra thick walls (0.9mm) and extra thick layers (0.45mm), which shortens print times tremendously. It’s possible this contributed to my lack of success without supports at the top of the head. However, I am pleased with the result!

This was printed on a heavily modified Ender 3v2 (modified with Ender Extender 400 XL, board and touch screen replaced with BTT items, and the extruder and hotend replaced with MicroSwiss direct drive extruder and all-metal hotend).

To BODY3D: Thanks for the great model!

Change log:
  • December 18, 2022, 4:35 am (EST): initial posting of v1.0.

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Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

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Christmas Tree Decoration / Ornament

https://www.printables.com/model/329426-christmas-tree-decoration-ornament







Merry Christmas from Design8Studio!

Christmas Tree Decoration / Ornament can stand on its own or hang from a tree!

Printing notes:

  • If printed at normal size, it’s 7.12 inches tall (180.875 mm) and is 2.75 mm thick.
  • It can be scaled down/up for printing at other sizes (scale it in your slicer).
  • The one shown in the pics (first one I printed) was scaled down to 65.45%, to get the thickness to exactly 1.8 mm. That results in a height of 4.66 inches (118.39 mm).

If you enjoy printing and decorating with it, please snap a pic and post your make!

Love and prayers for Happy Holidays for all,

Pastor Doug Joseph
Design8Studio.com

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio

Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

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Improved / repaired spikes for ReProps’s “Majora’s Mask from Legend of Zelda”

https://www.printables.com/model/333609-improved-repaired-spikes-for-repropss-majoras-mask









I’m not into Zelda, but I was seeking this for Christmas gifting for a loved one who is into it.

On Printables, ReProps’s model (which this remix seeks to improve upon) was the only one I could find for “Majora’s Mask from Legend of Zelda” (at least in my quick search). ReProps seems to have done an impressive bit of modeling on the main mask. There are some issues overall.

I later realized that another “Majora’s Mask” model, which includes simulated “wood cracks/nicks,” exists on “that other model site."

However, I had already started first by printing the main mask body of ReProps’s model, before I realized that the spikes were not oriented for printing, and before I discovered that spike #1 was not properly keyed to the main body (its grooves for the ridges are not placed correctly, thus its peg does not match its hole — off by some 8mm).

By the time I found the other, impressive “wood nicked” model, and also before I finally realized the issues with the spikes on this model, I was “in for a penny, in for a pound.” So I stuck it out and remixed the spikes of this model to get a decent resulting print (not yet painted, see pics).

My remixed spikes here come in a pre-mirrored set, are properly oriented for printing (supports are required), and have the issue fixed for spike #1’s groove location / peg location.

As a bonus, my set has the spikes named on their bottoms (the left five are L1, L2, L3 … etc, and right five are R1, R2, R3… etc). I use the same numbering scheme that ReProps’s model does (spike #1 is at the bottom, and they are numbered upwards from there).

ReProps’s model listing inaccurately stated “supports: no” but please note that the model cannot be printed without supports . I have already brought that to ReProps’s attention in the comments.

ReProps’s model listing suggested scaling the model to 320%. I did so, and my remixed spikes are pre-scaled to that same amount. Similarly, the main mask body here is pre-scaled to the same amount.

My final summary advice is that if you have not started printing yet, consider the impressive “wood nicked” model instead. Or if you did already get your main body printed on ReProps’s model, hopefully my spike remix here will help you get a completed result.

PS: there were some other minor issues with the spikes that I did not address.

My PayPal tip jar: https://paypal.me/design8studio

Various LowRider 3 CNC remixes:

View all my models and remixes on Printables:

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